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They can be some awfully large hairs. At least keep a stock nozzle and one bored to 85-86mm so you have an easy way to adjust load. This will tell which way you need to go with the prop.

Fine tuning the pump load is very important yet few people do it. You need to have a tach and either learn how to bend blades or communicate with your prop guy. A tach and gps can give a lot of feedback that is otherwise difficult to feel. Your engine provider should give a target rpm along with...

A stock 13-17 Concord is a lot of load. Just bend the trailing edge up and it will come alive.

You are probably in the fine tuning range depending on the pipe. A limited pipe may be short on rpm but not much.

Not really because the port timing is different. The venture carbs wiil probably be OK in the pilot/popoff but too rich at full throttle with the stock SJ pipe. The easiest thing to do is to tie it down to a trailer, sink it deep, and power tune the top screw on the carbs. A tach is ideal but...

Basically you need a larger pump and inlet for best efficiency at low speeds. Adding impeller pitch will work once the ski is moving but not so well out of the hole. A good example of a mismatched engine/pump is the FX1. Large hubs fill a dead spot where water and air tend to recirculate, thats...

AHHH, us poor folks don't need another $2000 pump on the market. Instead send your favorite "Mag" pump to China with a note saying "Crazy Americans pay over $1000 for these". In a few months the market should be brimming with $100 mag pumps.

You will have to get a tach or just power tune it on the trailer sunk as deep as possible.

Over here too. Some things just seem so natural.

Cheaper and better looking is going to be all that matters here. Having more vanes will also make it sell, more is always better, right? So how much for a 12 vane stator?

The Mag pump primes faster and handles white water better than stock pump so the results will depend on how and where you ride. A big engine may not make any more power than a smaller one but is usually more responsive. The pump will begin to struggle at low speeds when you get a good drypipe.

Wow, thanks for the english to English translation.

I doubt that Stihl makes the oil but the results were obtained over many of months of field testing. The engines were 28cc-80cc and aircooled, it may not be any good in a jetski.

Are you sure that the center shaft was not too large for the bearings? Its a lot easier for a crank builder to blame overheated bearings on the oil rather than eating the cost of parts that don't fit correctly.

The older R&Ds didnt hang much below the hull anyway, nothing like a worx or watercross. A superjet is not going to slide very well no matter. Thats the world of old Kawasakis, especially the 650sx.

Mine is installed so I cant be exact. I measure about 2.5 feet from box to box. Three feet should be safe since there is plenty of room to tie up any slack.

The best carb for any stock ported/stock ignition 650 is the stock 91-93 carb and manifold. You can use a 92-95 750sx carb with the 91 650 manifold if a low pitch prop is used. A 44sbn on an aftermarket manifold will tend to act too large (tuning wise) but lots of people have run them successfully.

Cheap tcw-3 (pennzoil, walmart, shell, citgo, quicksilver) mixed at 3-4%

No, its mainly the pipe itself. Not sure if a Sizzler pipe would clear the bottom of a Kawi manifold or cylinder.

My Coffmans X2 pipe almost rubs the hull with the original engine. Add an inch to that with a Yamaha engine. You may be able to modify the mounting lug and clear the hull but I think it would be a lot easier to find a Sizzler, it mounts closer to the engine. The Sizzler is shorter with steeper...