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Keihin did not have as much vendor support as Mikuni. Plus their "big" carb was called a 42 where Mukuni had a 44. They both have the same choke area but the uninformed will always buy bigger. Keihin exited the market once the boom was over.

A 144 will go in a 650-750 very easily. You will need to make a custom pump shoe and ideally remove most of the inlet then reskin. The 144 will sit two inches aft so enough inlet area may be gained without modification.

If I worked in the freestyle industry I would be too busy selling expensive ------ --

Stop while you are ahead. Focus on the impeller and what is ahead of it rather than all the BS that people put behind it. Get at least a 12-18 concord or a 9-17 skat swirl modified for 650 use, and a deep grate. That old 15 will have very poor low speed thrust compared to new designs.

Its nasty, more difficult to mix and keep mixed, and has less corrosion protection. Usually not a problem though. A 3% mix of TCW3 will work fine in everything but a dry piped race boat.

You will never have clean plugs unless you ride WOT all the time. Freestyle tuning and riding tends to turn plugs black very quickly.

Oversize liners, pistons, porting , and head work should not exceed $1200. If you dont need it to be super snappy a ported 62T cyl will make just as much power for half the price.

About 19-20 degrees at high rpm. 650 cdi rev limit is under 7000 though. It takes 7200+ for max thrust from a 140 pump.

I have both 701s and a 750 with many cylinders at my disposal. By the time I port a 701 to make the same power as the equivalent ported/piped 750 the throttle response is no better. I found the difference in low speed thrust in the pump more so than the engine.

I am installing a 144 pump in my (back flip) X2, one of the few with steering moved aft 12" and built in footwells. It has been an easy mod so far, the pump shoe will be the only challenging part to mfg. Looks like it will get a bigpin lower with an XI cyl.

Its a waste of time, get a coffmans or factory pipe and use a stock waterbox.

Small carbs tune great with tachs. By the time I get best response with a 44 or larger the top screw is always rich of peak rpm. Make it sputter at 1/4 throttle with the pilot and turn the top screw until it pulls hardest.

Kawasaki 750-800 cylinders are completely interchangeable. Its the crank, case, and pistons that are different. For best response get a 92-95 single carb cyl or an 800 sxr cyl. Always make sure to verify clearance between the crank wheels and sleeve when using an early cyl with a big pin...

If you must paint the interior, gloss white promotes better maintenance and is easier to clean.

Look at his pictures, he is ridiculously overpropped. Boring the nozzle to 85mm will make a big difference for him. Stubby cones may have some benefit with larger nozzles (havent tested yet) but are a complete waste with stock sizes.

That textured coating is there to hide all the stuff that they aren't too proud of. I want to see more than a pretty wrapper for 4K.

A waterbox should be designed with a build in stand pipe that is above the water line when the hull is on its side. Kawasaki 650sx and x2s have the outlet and engine exhaust on the left side so they made a tube that that goes to the far right side within the box. Some aftermarket boxes are...

I think most people just see it as a muffler.

Yep, just dump it right out the side. You will get more attention than you ever wanted.

If he rolled the ski from side to side without the engine running then one cyl could have took a drink. Single carb engines are less likely to hydro, they normally get both cyls wet enough to prevent starting. Once a rod bends it usually breaks in a few minutes.