@christian_83,Your way of checking runout on this light crank is wrong.support the end bearings or better yet support the crank tail and snout directly on v blocks
Powder coating will also come off ,even more so in salt water.
Try high solids imron with alloy primer.i’ve had good Luck with that but does eventually come of as well
assuming you measured it at the flywheel snout?
it won't grenade on you but 4 thou is a fair bit of runout and will only get worse over time.0 to1 thou is acceptable,3 to 4 is pushing it.
either get it rebuilt or put new one in.
Always nice to see someone think outside the box and actually produce the parts.
Hope these work out and even if they don’t last as long as oem it still gives a second life to the shaft.
Great craftsmanship.wonder what tooling he’s using .
Misalignment on this setup will result in more vibrations so possibly more wear but also earlier indication of this.
Is the engagement longer than oem?
get rid of the worx plate.tbm is much better but the wobble will still be there a bit.sxr are nose heavy,destroyer sponsons will help a lot.
worx grates are ok but tbm or skat are better.
unless your pump shoe is damaged,the blowsion one won't do a thing more.just fill the cavities in oem shoe
some also grind away a small portion of rear hull rail lip where the hood gasket sits so pipe can be removed without moving engine.
be sure to shim/align lord mounts so no stress is on the pipe and orings.
lastly get a 650sx pipe coupler with 2 hose clamps and put it over the manifold and pipe...
idk how it could happen.it's your boat,you should know.in one pic it looks off a very small amount.didn't say it was the alignment,only mentioned to check it.chillax some will ya...
direct injection would help power and pollution but tricky to set up.
if port injection 1/2 the fuel will fly out the exhaust unless port timing is toned way down but that will limit hp.
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