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They are too steep for small engines. Close to a 11-17 hooker.

That old 9-17 is fine for any 650 application.

They dont even attempt to seal their pumps knowing fully that this will happen sooner or later. This is their way of insuring future business.

The impeller alone is worth about half the total gain with small engines. If your budget is tight just do the prop and bore the nozzle.

You got the combustion temps a little hot, I have done the same thing many times since 1993. First make sure your fuel line will hold vacuum from the tank pickup all the way to the carb. Once everything is back together open the top screws 2 turns, see how it runs and start leaning if power is...

I had a Superjet do the same thing when a lot of debris blocked the filter. Disassemble the carb and make sure the basket (mikuni) or screen (keihin) is clean. Then blow on the tank vent an confirm that a solid stream of gas comes from the supply line.

Anyone with the ability to do good composite work should be able to get started with very little capitol. It is more labor than anything. The best boat builders are not rich kids.

Never finance another mans business. A deposit should never exceed $100.

This is a subjective sport, judges like the Xscream riders so that is what the competitors buy. It will change as soon as a top rider on a different boat wins. Just like racing changed from 750s to Superjets.

Square nose hulls are extremely fragile when it comes to any side landings. It wont take long before the top deck caves in or the hood latch breaks. A hood strap and limit rope will get you through the day but you will be doing major hull repairs before you master a roll.

Since the wires are solid it wont make much difference in RFI. Use caps that arent rigid so you can use a zip-tie.

Use the stock one, the weight will be needed if you are much over 150lbs. Drilling it just makes more noise.

That is an amazing amount of money for what you are getting. Anyway, Chans problem was Kevlar in the layup. They might as well have put separator film in it..

A Kawasaki pump mod is a cheap and easier way to get better thrust. A Yamaha 144 can be better if the entire inlet is also enlarged, this is a lot more work though.

You are contemplating surf type mods. Modding the nose is great if you are always stabbing through waves. Otherwise its just for looks on a blaster. I would not shorten it if you spend a lot of time at high speeds.

If its is a 13-17 Concord it needs to be flattened out a little, they are very good after that.

Your problem is the pump, adding power wont help much from 0-15 MPH. A stock 650 superjet makes more static thrust than a 100hp FX1.

That was a Friday piston, I would use it. I have found pistons with cast arrows having the pins clocked nearly sideways.

I would just have the stock head modified. There are adapter plates for ADA heads.

Are you trying to make a 7700 rpm pipe work on a 7000 rpm engine? If so add water.