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Are you looking to create a piece of modern art, or do you want to make a functional vehicle??? Almost everyone does the exact same cosmetic mods to their X2s. Making it perform much better costs a lot of money.

A 93-95 X2 CDI has a retard curve and a 6900 rpm rev limit. If you can get a 650 to spin over 7000 try a 750-800 ignition. Otherwise you will over rev the engine without any performance benefit.

Mark the flywheel and check timing from idle to rev limit. Some of the early CDI have no retard curve. The CDI used in XIR and all SXI through 03 has more advance at low rpm and drops 5 degrees up top for safe full throttle runs. I would not use an advance plate with pump gas for any full...

Make sure it is plenty rich around 1/4 throttle. If it sounds clean then its too lean and response will suffer.

I have been lucky a few times and actually received a "like new" part. In the jetski world, it doesnt happen very often. I still occasionally buy a used part but I never pay much and never expect much anymore.

If your cylinder has low ports and lots of compression it should pull a 11-17 hooker or a 12-18 solas with an 85mm nozzle. Drop down to a 10-16 hooker for higher ports and/or low compression.

If the SXR was completely stock, your 701 SXI will be as good or a little better as long as you use an aftermarket pipe. If the SXR had a pipe then your 701 will be much less by comparison.

Few jetski parts hold up very well to begin with. Used parts will almost always be worn and corroded to the point of needing some repair. People who salvage used parts are not wealthy and need to sell everything they can dig up. Used jetski parts are overvalued and seldom economical for long...

All mine get too hot to touch. Seal drag makes heat and the shaft/bearing is insulated in rubber.

Most available impellers are too steep for what we do and most people tend to go up rather than down when they buy one. Nearly all modern units (except Dynaflys) are cambered and have a low leading edge angle. Raising the trailing edge will unload the pump without hurting anything. Large hubs...

With a stock pump, any additional power is wasted. Besides that, a bigger carb wont do much without porting and a pipe.

That is difficult to predict. The engine should be fourcycling a little around 1/4 throttle and the top screw should be set a few rpm rich of peak, or for best acceleration which is usually the same. The common range is pilot 120-130, popoff around 20psi, and a 150-170 main depending where the...

Stuffing the crankcase will increase primary compression which usually makes the pipe hit harder. If the filler is peeling then warm up case to 200 and rip it out. You wont miss it.

It is the state of the sport, it has become popular and participants are not too interested in the dirty details.

The big hub will make better low speed thrust along with a larger nozzle. I would NOT install the advance plate it you ever ride full throttle for more than a few seconds.

The advertised numbers are meaningless. Out of the box, a YQ-12-18 ran 300rpm lower than a 9-15 hooker. I raised the trailing edge 6mm to make it match the 9-15 load. The YQ would be good for a SS850 or 800cc stroker.

A punched out Yamaha twin is too frail and octane sensitive for sitdown use. Use a triple for cheap reliable power.

I looks like that ski has been sitting half full of water for a while. You may be able to get it running as it is but it needs a complete inspection/overhaul for any kind of reliability.

The rear bearing carries thrust loading and the front only radial loads. The front bearing is positioned by the shaft spacer once the rear is against the pump housing. So, all you need to do is make sure the front doesnt hit the housing when the impeller is tightened or else the bearings will be...

There is no information on ANY carbs. All you get is a name and a number, maybe a little BS along with it.