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I like it. Although, my "weapon" will speak for itself...lol

I'm going to opt out for now, and wait...lol When you guys finally figure it out, I'll be here. :biggrin: enjoy........

Yes you can sir, and it will even run, it will just run like crap and be difficult to start with a load on it. When breaking in an engine, there is only a small period of time where the rings can seat properly before the high parts of the crosshatched surface is cut or polished down. If you run...

nice. :biggrin: you tree hugger....lol

Terry, you can have compression with a mirror finish on the bore, it just won't be as good and even as if you had cut the rings in properly and evenly. You're missing the point....lol The high strength filming of full synthetics will not allow the rings to cut into the bore and seat....lol Heat...

Matt, before you do that, lets get a compression reading on the cylinders first if that's ok. Also, how many hours do you have logged with them?

Nope, The compression will come up, just not where it should be, because the surface of the cylinder is being "polished" and closed off, or "sealing" against the rings. Where if the rings were cutting into the bore like they're supposed to the, crosshatch will be cut into by the rings, rather...

Well, the engine "broken in" with full synthetic and high film strength oil will yield an uneven ring seat at best, if any at all. A polished surface of the crosshatch on the cylinders surface, not cut in by the rings. Possibly uneven compression. Comparably next to another duplicate engine...

The compression will come up regardless, and most likely not to the point it should be, just from heat cycles alone. That doesn't mean the rings are "cutting" into the bore like they're supposed to in order to properly and evenly seat. The problem is the rings will not evenly cut into the bore...

lol

The thing is, Your engine will have compression regardless, but if you broke it in with full synthetic oil, it most likely still needs to be broken in, let alone if not have a hone put through it,depending on how many hours you've put it through, the surface broken, and ash oil to allow the...

Actually, you are very wrong. I haven't read any of what I've told you on the internet. I've built rec and race engines for almost 30 years. Everything I've told you is from my own experience and learning about this stuff along the way, understanding how different oils perform, and just plain...

Matt, have you ever heard of street racers throwing Ajax or Comet brand cleaners into their carb intakes in order to seat their piston rings?

Not necessary in order to know the effective differences of the two types of oil, if you already understand them. Correct? Here's another way to look at it. The same reason full synthetic oils will make a top end last longer, is the same reason it won't allow rings to seat properly into a...

Well, my own "experience" with it is based on understanding how different abrasives work, and their effects on various metals, as well as how a cylinder with a "glaze" performs, vs. a crosshatched bore with rings that are seated properly into the bore. The filming strength of full synthetic oil...

Yes. "Saber" is the 100:1 premix version. Neither of which are suitable for breaking in an engine, as they will only allow the rings to "polish" the bore, and not cut into it.

Uhm.... it's friday night, and uhm..... your thread is being hijacked? :dunno: :biggrin:

yeah, but we're good at it. (whatever it is.. :dunno: )

I think there may be two different types of dominator, and the 100:1 dominator is no good for break-in, as it is a full -synthetic, and very high film-strength oil. You can still purchase single-ringed pistons for two-strokes, bro. :biggrin:

filming strength. The weakness of the ash content film is where the break in occurs. I understand that you mean by lessening the oil to fuel ratio, you are attempting to achieve the same results as a high ash content oil with a weak film strength, but you are much safer running the recommended...