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You may not go any faster but all the extra noise will make it feel fast!

!5 degrees should be safe in adverse conditions. You can have more spark lead with an overabundance of octane or rich carb setting. You really have to do your own meltdown testing to know what you can get away with. So I would back off the high RPM timing and get the carbs tuned perfect before...

There are too many variables to know what jets you need. Install a stock flame arrestor and richen it up until it runs right. Then tell the group what it took.

The PSI was an early Superjet 650 pipe. I saw several around in 1991-92.

You still need to power tune the top screw.

It never hurts to try something new, its only shoes and socks. After wearing a few different water shoes, I now wear any "old" shoe that is comfortable with cotton socks.

Use the 44 until you are able to work through the pump setup and carb tuning.

If its over 10 years old, pull it apart and inspect/repair everything. Most owners wont do this, most old skis are garbage pits!

Installing a shorter spring will make idle through about 1/2 throttle richer. Re-adjusting the lower idle mixture screw may be necessary and is easy. Dont change the pilot and spring at the same time or else you will overshoot the desired setting.. Also choose a flame arrestor before you start...

I think your biggest issues are making sure the impeller is pitched low enough and learning how to tune your carb. The ignition timing should be checked as well.

I never saw a stock single carb big pin engine. Every Keihin watercraft carb from 91-up is a cdk2. A stock single 40 from a 92-95 750sx work very well. The 75 pilot jet is too lean and will make the ski less reliable when cold. An 80-82 is about right depending on your pop-off spring. You can...

The biggest problem I see is people putting them away wet. Make sure the engine compartment is completely dry before latching the hood and letting it sit. I keep mine in a garage and prop open the hood an inch. Also start the engine when you get home for a second blowing out. Rust and corrosion...

What impeller do you have? A little too much will kill a perfectly tuned engine.

That flow valve probably wont open since there is such a large bypass in front of it. Just leave the bypass and get rid of the valve, You can place a restrictor around .1 inch at the pipe. I never could find anything but heat and noise when shutting water completely off to the waterbox.

A lot of aftermarket charge wheels have weak magnets when compared to OEM. They tend to get worse with age. Just get a screwdriver and run it around the inside, you can feel the difference.

I made the inlet radius longer on a 650, it works well but I have no way to measure how much better it is. Depending on your power, a good scoop and large hub prop is getting pretty good.

Ultralights barely have enough power to fly the way they are. Just getting off the ground in one can be exciting if its a little windy, much like a stock 440 would be in the surf. It takes something heavier and more powerful in order to have fun.

I would use an 80-82 pilot and 150 main. Peak the power with the top screw.

In a Super Chicken? Use the single 40 with stock F/A, life will be good.

Its a little bit of work but you can make removable cavity fills inside the hull and hood. It will probably also need a largish floating pole pad for positive floatation. Considering the kind of money spent on skis, a small inflatable airbag could be developed.