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Sometimes you get lucky. There is a big difference between coaches and players.

Buy a used cracked up AM hull, with a rusty stroker motor. Dont worry about condition or if its too short for you. Those things are just too cool for any of that stuff to matter.

Finding a group of local riders with any experience can be a chore these days. I was in it for 10 yrs before I finally started bending impellers and boring nozzles. There is a lot of thrust to be gained right there. Most kids I see now are more interested in their tattoos than actually learning...

For consumer use, find something that is non blushing. Most table top epoxy is very similar to West.

This is why I NEVER buy a used PWC engine unless I can inspect all its parts.

That’s why it’s now a crispy critter! It has big carbs though, that’s all they really matters.

Start with a good mechanical overhaul if you are serious about riding the ski. Post a picture of the grate.

Higher ports will make more power when the pipe is working and make less at lower rpm. On a ski it can take some careful pump load tuning before a high port will get on the pipe quick enough. Low port 61x cyls make more power below the pipe so their owners have a much easier time getting good...

Higher port 62t cylinders need a lower pitched impeller for best response. The stock SJ exhaust has no tuning to speak of. 62t cyls will go faster than a 61x will once a good pipe is installed.

I would have said, “Don’t spend any money on a 550”. Wait until 1989 for a Kawasaki 650 and move up from there. That required a crystal ball in the 80s. Now the entire sport has settled and hindsight can take you a long way.

There is a lot to digest there since so much of the power is coming from the pipe. Has any of you dyno guys ever run an engine with a stub pipe and then progressed with wet and dry pipes??

You always want to sand the inlet radius larger on all the old Kawasakis. Another trick for X2s is to modify the ride plate to make it flatter. Most of them have a little too much down trim built in. X2s will hookup like a standup once you reduce the negative trim and get the center of...

The one mod that made the most improvement on my X2 was moving the steering back. It turns better and the ride is much drier. Making inclined footwells made it much more comfortable to ride. Move the steering aft 9" for small guys and 6" for bigger ones.

Does the full throttle mixture settle very much at top speed? I never could get a big single to hit as hard or hold a consistent full throttle mixture as well as a pair of SBN 44s, at least on small engines.

Ive had the same experience with OEM Kawasaki parts. Everything gets boxed and shipped whether the part is good or bad. To their credit, they did take it back and send me a good one.

We're still running the same engines today.

I mean I have to pull on the footholds and push up on the bars to keep it from falling on top of me. It cant be done continuously unless you are wearing a lot of floatation. You have to go back to the neutral point and stretch your body back out. For the exhaust, I placed the 90 degree dump...

You guys never get the nose high enough for the exhaust to vent the pump. Its when the ski is about to fall backwards that the rear exhaust will vent the pump. Then all you get is the rev limiter and the ski falls. Then the pump reprimes and the ski shoots out of the water. I never had...

If you want to do tail stands get a WR3 exhaust outlet and make a side exhaust just in front of the bulkhead. The rear exhaust will vent the pump once the ski is at its vertical balance point.

The last time the USA actually won a war, we nuked civilian populations until they gave up. Now we arm and feed the enemy and wonder why the winning stopped.