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I mean getting all the water out of the exhaust and getting the head near boiling temp before I take the ski home. Over time most engines are ruined by putting them away wet.

That part is a fillet and probably has no fiber in it. The cracks wont spread to the hull structure. The mount may come loose if its only mounted in that material.

I would never hold a cold engine full throttle out of the water because of the high possibility of after fire and blowing the box. All my yamahas run 7000-7200 and their rev limiters are around 7400-7500. My stock big pin 750s are a little higher. Here is something very few understand, an...

The fuel air mix is normally too rich at the rev limit to blow a box. Quadrupling the oil in the gas makes it leaner. Ive had this ski since 1993 and that was the only time it ever after fired. My X2 will do it some when held against the rev limit but not very bad.

I would have never thought about it but it did cost be a waterbox on my SN. I put 4 gal in the empty tank then a pint of tcw3. Started it, let it warm up and blew the box revving it up. I looked at the tank and only the bottom half was blue. It had an extreme oil mix going into the engine. I...

OEM or aftermarket?

Get a clear plastic gallon jug full of the gas you use. Then pour whatever oil you use into that and see how it mixes. Most oil will sit at the bottom until the jug is slightly agitated. Pouring the oil in before the gas will usually mix very well without agitation. If the mix is crystal clear...

How did you bolt the stock 650 exhaust to a 62t head???

Use this at 32:1. Works good and prevents rust.

No need to buy a flow control valve, just T a pisser between the head an exhaust if you want.

You are too big for the old 750 hull. A shorter pole will help a lot. How bad is the cavitation, does the pump completely blow out? Does it just vibrate more than expected? Either way the pump is sucking air or has a lot of damage. Look at the driveshaft carrier, the rubber pump seal, and the...

In aviation they spend a LOT trying to save a little weight. One project I worked allowed $50K per pound of weight savings. Often outer skins are made under high pressure then they are grit blasted and have nomex bonded to them for stiffness. You may be able to do it all at once using foam on a...

From all I can gather sleeve and piston availability is very poor for these custom made cylinders. Something to think about if you want to stick around for a while.

More a vehicle than a toy.

Peel ply? I use nylon cloth. For core I would use dense PVC foam. Balsa is the most effecient but it will rot. Rohacell is expensive and looses half its strength when it gets wet. Nomex $$$$$.

No later than Halloween.

Very few stay with this hobby for long. You would be very fortunate to find quality people who will keep a ski running for decades. I completely understand the difficulty with finding another jetskier that you can stand being around. If you are a long term rider keep a spare ski running for...

The SN Superjets have a slight amount of rocker built into the bottom. This makes them want to hook and turn. When you are fast in smooth water the ski will always hunt. It won’t cause you to fall but it will take some time before it’s not annoying.

Quality is in the workmanship of the swap. The tom21 part has a better shaped inlet but there is much greater opportunity to mess up an otherwise good hull. Doing the swap is relatively easy compared to learning how to stay on top of a fast FX1.

The biggest difference between a Kawasaki 140 with stock inlet and a complete 144 pump/inlet swap is low speed thrust. The fx1 turns on the edge like old Kawasaki’s. Riding a Superjet will make it harder to learn.