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Almost talked him into the Tundra,can't order the config we want ( long bed 8' std cab). I don't think Nissan does it either.

I just wonder about “ding” resistance with the aluminum.

The 2wd V6 09 we bought got zero love and looks fine and doesn't owe a dime. So in 12 when the boss man told me to get what I wanted I ordered a 2500HD 4wd 6.0 gas. 5 yrs. and 1 month later this started. Right after the rust through was up. The ac took a dive. All 4 calipers had to be cut off...

I thought that also. The owner is old school and it is his money..... And when I checked Toyotas build options I couldn't get a long bed, 8', std. cab.

The owner of my company tasked me with ordering a new shop truck. I'm after a 1/2 ton (1500, 150), Std cab, long bed, 4wd, V8, work truck. His only caveat, it has to be "American". To be honest I'm a Toyota man myself and the last trucks I ordered for the company were Chevys , in 09 and in 12...

Yes water box temp. The tighter the valve higher the temp. Less water later. Loosely more water earlier, more back pressure I assume?

I finally got adjustment under control. What temps are you shooting for? I’m measuring with a Fluke noncontact, right on the metal at the inlet coupler. I’ve got it dialed to the point of 1/2 turn in, up 10 degrees, 1/2 turn out, down 10. 898 Pv motor, PFP dry, PFP Box, Novi 48’s Maxx 155 .....

GFlex is an excellent bonding epoxy. I am doing so much composite work that I have 3:1 on constant standby, set up with pumps, and a triple beam scale for microbatches. Plus I'm so familiar with 3:1, temps ,mixes, what you can and can't do with it, additives, etc. It's just what I'm comfy with...

I use US Composites 3:1 with West 404 mixed to a peanut butter consistency for bonding metal to glass or carbon. US Comp 3:1 works great for laminating, bonding. Works well with additives based on the job your doing. I also like US Composites for one stop shopping.

Damn Blue! Why do I want this ? Lol !

Nice cuts!

In case anyone needs to know, Danco #30 & #40 orings, @ HD or Lowes are perfect fit for the 2 orings used in the FCV.

My FCV has about 20 gals. ride time on it. I did disassemble it and found both orings were perfect. I'm pretty sure I know why it was leaking. I had it adjusted as loose as possible, easiest opening for my test ride. If you look at Harbors 3rd pic you see the piece that gets the circlip to hold...

Oh yeah. You'd be amazed at what can be done with stick. I'm no welder but am fortune enough to know guys that are friggin artists, they can point you in the right direction but it's all about stick time. Believe me , I've stuck my share of electrodes.

Thanks Ducky, posting links exceed my available computer skills, lol.

Like Don said , Mcmaster. You can't look for brand names though, you have to search based on what it is you're after. Adhesive nuts should get you there. Make sure you get to stainless, they have both. As far as welding, everything I've made that I've posted was stick welded. Stick is Quick ! I...

Following this one !

Pm Tricky

Thanks Harbor ! Looks like I’m cutting my Otiker clamp...

I was post ride flushing my ski and happen to notice water leaking from where the circlip/ barb end of the FCV valve that allows the body to rotate for adjustment. I disassembled the valve, checked the jet wasn’t clogged (PFP pipe) and noticed the barb is made with a plate that is pushed thru...