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Check out Wax Racing...Superjet Long Exhaust Hose

I'm at 30 yrs. and I'm getting close. It's like rock, scissors, paper. 1 wins for the surf , 1 wins for the buoys and 1 wins for flatwater.

I'm thinking of doing the same thing with my FS1. Beefing it with "useful" weight, takes a lot carbon to add weight though. Lot of strength , yes , lot of cost also. At least I won't break it.

I did say IMHO.... I have ridden 3 "equal" comparison boats in both materials in the surf for way more than 1 tank, Aquabot's , Rickter FS1 carbon/2003 SJ glass, FX1 "hybrid carbon/ FX1 glass. For the surf, out of what I've ridden, I'll take the glass version everytime.

Aquabot full carbon , Rickter FS1 full carbon, Fx1 Carbon hybrid. I just didn't like the feel of any of them. I jump on a glass boat, you name it, SJ , FX , Aquabot , any of the SV's, 1, 2, +3's, Pro, Predators, can't remember them all, but what I do remember is I'll take ANY of them over the...

The only other time carbon wins is loading up at the end of the day!

IMHO unless you’re talking about a flip boat lightweight sucks. I’ll always take a heavy, solid glass boat over a carbon boat for anything other than a backflip boat. In my experience carbon boats ring your bell in the surf, bounce too much for buoys. You can take a bmx bike on a mountain bike...

Lol. Here's a motor mount repair in a Phantom. US Composites 3:1 and adding West 404 for bonding. What's nice is you can add 404 for a putty or a pour consistency. And lol again, I covered it all with 3:1 and graphite as a dye.

That's definitely a consideration , why I asked about materials of construction and did it track in previous post . If those bonding binders can be "thinned" with heat that would be a +1 for binder. Maybe a better choice if you can flex the delam open/close and the separation doesn't look like...

Exactly what I'd do. I'd use a slow epoxy , my weapon of choice would be US Composites 3:1. Flip the boat upside down and using a slow epoxy and time will allow it to permeate/ propagate fully into the void. Be sure to check that the void is sealed on the back side so the epoxy doesn't run thru...

Did that delam track , as in spread further on the inside? Is bond line exposed inside ? What's the construction, carbon bottom/glass on top, vice versa?

I'd start by asking L Stone what they recommend. More than likely you'll be cleaning/scuffing/prepping the best you can and using epoxy to fill the void, clamping and curing. If delam is completely thru hull to interior don't forget to back/seal the inside or you'll wondering where all your...

It was an election year, they elected to not use enough bonding agent.

According to my engine builder/supplier ( CPT Chuck, Zack PHP) the R50 is way "stickier" and overkill on it's own. Per their recommendation I mix 3qts. Skicraft to 1qt. R50, so far so good. They feel the R50 leaves a nice sticky layer on everything especially when it comes to salt water.

Start now and keep it up. Lifting is the fountain of youth. The first 2 pics are of this girl when she was 41, the 3rd is her today, 17 years later, you do the math, she'll kill me if I say her age. Weight training and diet. She's dedicated.

I believe Maxx and Torrent 150’s fit the same as a 144/148’s, if you’re buying new.

If it’s a 155 mag, what kind of seal are you using? OEM, or R&D? OEM or OEM Remans from Jet Maniac should go if you’re able to get bolts in pump without seal in place. The rubber is very thin in front of the lip. The R&D seals are way thicker.

Forget chains, driveshafts and couplers, think bow thruster. Motor right in the hub, one isolated stator vein for a positive connection.

And as far as setback pretty much 3-5mm was about it. I believe I settled on 5mm, because pump location determined coupler clearance and if you tried to increase setback after setting pump your coupler clearance would open up when using the Kawi shaft arrangement.