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Oh, okay. So you have never replaced the end cap bearing, or the bottom bushing? Mine has a little play in it. It's probably okay, but i'd like to replace it.??

Ahhhhh, anyone?

Does anyone know where I can get a complete rebuild kit for a 701 starter? I know you can buy some individual oem parts from yamaha, but i would rather find a rebuild kit. Thanks

I didn't see what you posted before I posted! I am not trying to bust your balls!!! :bigeyes:

I don't think there is a standard, but .050" is a good safe squish. That would be 1.27mm. To convert inches to millimeters is inches x 25.4 =. Ex. 2" x 25.4 = 50.8mm

Okay, The head is off the motor. Screw the indicator in the plug hole. Set the dome on the piston,(cyl. is removed at this point) and zero out the indicator. Now, with the indicator still in the head put the motor together. Spin the motor over slowly by hand. Whatever the smallest #...

Neil, you are right that is a dead nuts accurate way to measure the squish. I would use your method if I was building a close squish motor. For the average guy checking his .050'' squish motor, a piece of solder will do fine. :biggthumpup:

This is how we get through the winter up here in Canada!

Yeah, keep rubbing it in saki! Looks like some good fun. Is that a slut I see in one of those pics? Wish I was there. Here there is snow and cold!! Oh well, I'm going snowmobiling.

So, what determines the proper heat range? 7,8,9? Stock is a 7 ADA Head is an 8?

Well, I guess it depends how you set it up. I have ridden a couple of strokers that were so strong on the bottom it was stupid.:arms: On the other hand I have ridden strokers that needed half throttle before it had any power all? But after 1/2 throttle they would rip. That is not for me, I like...

You will want footholds, a one way valve and a short ride plate. The cyl. is going to be ported for top end. But you should be able to adj. the water injection and make it rip pretty good.

It's a Type 4. I run this pipe on my limited 701 and it has great bottom end. (I have ridden strokers with less bottom end!!!!) If you know how to tune, this pipe kicks!! Yes a girdle is the only way to go with a stock cyl. I learnt the hard way!!:banghead:

Well, if you are worried about the one way "blowing out" then drain out by the pump area. I am not worried about that happening. I think my valve is plenty strong enough to handle years of hard riding. I will be landing tail first also.(50/50's) I don't use my bilge pump much anymore...

I am not sure what brand it is. The case is all hard plastic(black). The middle is square and both ends are round. I think it is a 2'' one way valve. The rubber flap is reinforced with a steel plate for strength. You should be able to find it at Lowes or a plumbing store.(20.00) As for leting...

I didn't reinforce the top. That is just paint. Just so you know, this one way valve does not leak at all when it is sitting in the water!!! This valve is great!!!! I wouldn't do anything different if I was to do it again.

I just installed my one way valve this winter. It is one that is used in plumbing. I glued it with 5200 from the inside of the hull. Then I glassed it flush on the outside. I think it looks mint. I also glassed the tube that goes to the engine compartment. I ran this at Daytona, works great...

I just recieved my stickers the other day!! Thanks Abe.

So, you only ran 5-10 min. on 2 new plugs? I think you have to run a bit more to get a true reading.