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I have to agree with Boris on this one. I have not has a cigarette since May 10, 2010 and I just stopped cold turkey... It was time and I was ready... I have stopped before, but this time is for good... You will not quit until you really want to, regardless of what crutches you use...

OK, who hacked into Gil's computer???

Interesting, cause that low-med speed front wobble is what I want to get rid of... Hopefully the destroyers help...

As you are in Daytona, and you have the surf there, I personally would only purchase a SJ or 750cc + Kawasaki... It sounds like you are thinking abut purchasing a Kawi 550 or Kawi 650 for $1K and that is waaaay too much money in my books... http://orlando.craigslist.org/boa/2177530267.html...

You can call x-metal and get a side/rear exhaust tube... Best mod I did on my SN, you don' get the cavitation of a rear exhaust... I wish I had done it to my RN...

There is no doubt that the front exhaust helps you in a tail stand, but who really does tail stands that much now days? Other than that and to make a bunch of noise, they are a pain. I hated my front exhaust, in fact have it blocked off now, and will be repairing the front hole soon to put...

Back flips take balls, re-entries take skillz... Nuff said...

Ok, so you are the bigger one by coming onto someone elses product launch thread, insinuating that his hulls are not only copied, but are cheaply made and break apart, but then don't give any background nformation like the hull was a flatwater built hull built to someone elses specification and...

You mean the lawn darted hull that was later sold without disclosing to the new owner of the damage that was fixed? lol, sheesh... Looking good Steve, I wish I was there to see the hull progress....

It would be nice if they were both on a profile, you can't even see the hull/rocker of the WCF ski.... Just a stubby nose and lowered tray which most aftermarket skis have these days... Re-read Steve's first post...

Whatever you are smoking, can you please ship me some?

I like, I like... E-mail me the other pics... :sneaky:

My Dog after the Wife got done with her at christmas... I know, the SPCA was called out for Cruelty... :squint:

Take a piece of wire and bridge the brown/red wires (on the e-box side) coming from the start stop switch. If it clicks over, then those wires are good to the e-box. Then take an audible continuity tester and touch and end to the red wire and the other to the black wire running up to the start...

Are you serious? You would actually do that? The machinist just :-):-):-):-):-)ed up and you want him to do the other side? wow Send it to a proper machinist, which will probably put it through a verticle boring maching and will make sure the clearances are correct. Then your rare pistons...

What he said!!!

You are now 10 days since you have ridden it, and there is salt water in the motor... I would break the engine down ASAP and inspect the crank! Hopefully you only have a blown head gasket/o-ring and the bottom end is untouched. If there is water in the cases, then pickle the crank ASAP...

IMO, you should send it to a proper machine shop... No proper shop would hone a cylinder to the next bore... These clearances are just too close to get it right as you have proof of... Trying to save a little bit of money will cost you a :-):-):-):-) load in the long run. Rick

If you honestly went out trying to back flip a 440, then I'm not sure if you have big balls or are just a result of living in Kentucky.... :pokey:

Take the starter out, ground a jump pack to the body of the starter, and touch the positive cable to the post positive post on the starter, this will spin the starter, but obviously not under load. Have you taken the front plate off to see if the bendix if working and not come apart?