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NO , THEY DON'T , DON'T EVEN HAVE TO LOOK, CUT THE WIRES AND USE THEM TO RUN A BILGE PUMP OR SOMETHING.

You could probably cut a rectangular hole and fit a piece of PvC pipe cut in half in it , you would have to seal the ends of the pipe with something though , epoxy sticks pretty well to PVC if it's sanded first.

yes you really shouldn't go past two turns without going to the next size jet . I have a bunch of that old Polaris Fuji stuff here I will never use , if you get in a tight LMK .

The only heads that don't have 15 bolts are the early model 440's with Aluminum cylinders , they have 17 bolts , all cast iron cylinders have 15 bolts.

I would think it probably closes a circuit when it gets hot so no , tying the wires together is probably the opposite of what you want to do , most likely just unplug it inside of the electrical box .

I have cleaned worse before, I have had them so bad I had to beadblast the inside of the carb before , as long as the screws will come out it's usually fixable. As for your carb problem, I remember having to go way out on the low speed on the 38 I was running on the 650 before it came to life.

Temp here today 100 with a heat index of 107 , freaking ridiculous , I am getting way too old for this sheeeeeeeet !

Some small holes and inject some red loctite ?

They are called adhesive mount nuts , available here : https://www.mcmaster.com/products/weld-nuts/stainless-steel-adhesive-ready-nuts/

I was working today and a Black gentleman pulls up and starts honking the horn, I went to see what he wanted, turns out he drives by here and sees all the Seadoos in the yard , he said he noticed they were always different skis and wanted to know if I have one for sale, I pointed out the 97 GTX...

I get it I hate pulling Yamaha electrical boxes apart too , but sometimes you just have to buckle down and do it.

Yep a 13/16 Skat and a 13/16 Solas won't really be comparable

When I say to check it unloaded , it has to be disconnected from the regulator , otherwise you are checking through the regulator rectifier, to check individual components they have to be isolated out of the circuit . Usually that means going inside the electrical box and disconnecting the...

Pulled the 650SX apart, it ran hot, I mean really hot , I think he knocked off the flush hose when he put the hood on , or something along that line anyway , the head bolts were very loose and the head lifted right off, scoring marks on the pistons and cylinders, time for an overbore and...

Finished up the SN Superjet today , the local dealer did not want to deal on price on that start stop switch at all , so I ordered one from Leaders Marine , even not paying tax at the dealership it was still cheaper from Leaders , free shipping and it got here with a quickness as well . It...

That will work but may I make a suggestion, fill the very bottom of the insert with JB Weld and the inside of the threads with wax before you glue them in, epoxy gets in everywhere that you don't want it to.

That coil is toast , obviously if you want to charge 12v battery and you are using AC voltage , you will lose half the voltage when you run it through the rectifier, at any rate it should be around 100VAC unloaded at 7000 RPM'S .

What is the output of the coil unloaded when running ( That means not connected to the voltage regulator )

I would be cutting that thing open and putting in an Aluminum plate , but then me and bodywork are well acquainted .

An air leak somewhere , worn out throttle shaft bushings ? I have seen some weird stuff go down on those Kehin 38's and I have also seen carbs that should not have ever run work just fine , they are funky like that . I ran one for years on my fixie 650SX that was pieced together from parts ...