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Couldn't you just have the barrel on a slide mount with a cable attached so when the ski goes down the ramp the barrel would move forward lowering the ramp at the same time? This would eliminate having to fill the barrel with water and would keep the ramp distance to a minimum. Also it would be...

Here's a diagram if you need it with the wire colors.

If the heads are already broken off you'’ll have to drill out the center section and use an extractor tool to remove them. That's why you should use heat and vise grips to removed seized diaphragm cover screws.

That's why I always use brand new OEM or Motion-Pro Tygon fuel lines.

Yes http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/1667-B-pipe-cooling-routing-water-lines http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/652-SJ-Dual-Cooling

Mikuni Super-BN Rebuild Instructions.pdf Download link: http://www.mediafire.com/file/wuuuzzbfhnn

Clamp some vise grips on the outside area of the screw head and rotate them counter clock wise. Also if the gasoline is completely washed off you can use a propane torch to heat the carbs body near the screw threads and they should come loose. Jetting in the Tech FAQ section...

Get a longer ride plate such as the R&D Rius racing plate or the Worx dominator extended if you want to keep the nose down and to help prevent porpoising at speed. Another thing you might consider is to have the reduction nozzle taper bored with less of an angle which will create more nose...

What year SuperJet and what reduction nozzle casting number are you running? Also what ride plate are you using?

The Jet-Works linkage piece has external splines and the Mikuni kit uses internal splines that can be purchased separately; so you may have trouble finding those anywhere but Jet-Works.

On a stock engine most people probably won't notice any improvement but as the engines are modified with raise compression, porting, pipes etc they will rev up a lot quicker and difference becomes more noticeable mostly in the bottom end performance & throttle response. If you run a real steep...

I posted a thread on these a few years ago and they have been very good switches IMO. http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/20521-Waterproof-Shur-Stop-Switches&highlight= I just removed the wire casing and mounted the wires inside the handlebars for a cooler appearance. You'll need to extend the cable...

I just went with billet waterproof push buttons and sold my switch assembly.

Cool lookin'... it appears like two different ski's from either side.

You may have had the wrong person lighten your stock flywheel, some those guys just take your money and scratch the outer surface.

Just pull the front cover and post a picture of the flywheel you have installed.

It looks like a later Pro-Tec nozzle with the fins inside. I'd say 83mm but you could just remove the steering nozzle and measure it to find out the exact diameter.

Nice work...... you just gave me an idea for mounting one to my dock. I think I'm going to mount the hand crank on the bottom side and make the platform a bit taller with plastic rails, so the jet-ski will slide onto a beach cart.

They must be making those pump new pumps in China now. I use the ones that have the snap in cartridge so when you mount the pump body to the hull with 3M 5200 they can be easily swapped out and examined for debris.

It depends on which Pro-Tec reduction nozzle you have and when it was manufactured. Some had the fins inside and some did not have them but they're all around 83mm to 85mm in diameter and the extended steering nozzles have an oval shape like most that are 86.5mm tall to 88mm wide.