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I checked the pressure on my ski with the hood off and it strapped to a trailer. Easy to grab the throttle that way. Also the pressure you have is all relative to the jetting and popoff you're running as well. Changing a pilot or main jet can affect the fuel pressure as well. The possible...

The stock 64x manifold has a crossover tube. Did you happen to close it before running it? If not, when you switched to the wax manifold that doesn't have a crossover, that will absolutely affect your jetting. That could be part of the issue for losing your tune and being too rich.

Agreed no need to go bigger on the needle and seat than needed. For 25psi popoff I like the 2.0 n/s and 95g spring. That setting has worked for me on multiple carb tunes for different engines. Then adjust jetting to fit that particular engine.

All of the mikuni a/m carbs come with 90 degree fuel fittings, no choke and extended throttle shafts. Even with a set of oem 62t 38s when you replace the throttle shafts when they've worn out, the replacement shaft is also extended and you'll then connect the two carbs together with the...

Yes you'll purchase 2 single sbn 38s. You can connect both pumps together and use a single pulse. You'll want to connect a inlet into each carb and tee the returns together back to the tank.. the front carb should be the carb that the cable attaches to. I would also purchase a throttle wheel for...

As stated above you can clamp the nozzle to the table, and use a boring head. Or if you have a vice you can make a fixture that clamps in your vice that you can bolt the nozzle to.. there's many videos on YouTube on how to make your own boring head or fly cutter. Fly cutter will work just as...

You can use a milling machine to bore a nozzle as well just takes a little more setup time. I had a 750 engine in my 550 at one time with a 650sx Westcoast pipe which is very similar to the jetsport pipe. It had a 4.75in OD. I found a piece of 5in od- .125 thickness aluminum pipe and welded it...

Get your reduction nozzle bored out on both pumps while you have the pumps out. I think you can safely go to 68-69mm on the 440 and 550 pumps. Stick with a half pipe setup with the 550 pump. The 550 pumps load the engine hard at lower rpm and the shorter 440 full pipe doesn't generate enough...

you could also have a leaking oring around the seat or even a bad needle. when you check popoff, you can also go to a few psi below the actual popoff psi and let it sit with air in it and see if the needle drops to diagnose a leak. i can understand not wanting to drill out the restrictors but...

When you say 18 psi, is that measured or is that using the mikuni chart? Also important to list the n/s and spring you are using. Obviously important to verify popoff with a gauge. It sounds like you have fuel dribbling out of the venturis causing an overly rich condition.. if you have a 65...

I ran dual sbn 38s on my reed engine with rad valves that had stuffers as well. That ski ran excellent. Never noticed any lack of throttle response with the stuffers in place. However I never tried running the engine without the stuffers to compare.

The stuffer just helps direct the air and fuel into the crank case and fills in the dead area in the Reed. They should be there on the stock reeds. They were in my 550sx engine when I had one.

I have some gray molded diamond I'd be willing to spare

16-20psi should be OK. If it's too high you can somewhat compensate with more jetting.

Is the stroker crank a modified stock crank? Haven't heard of a stroker setup.for the 1100s. Sounds like a sick build, looking forward to it.

This ski is running a wax pipe with a superjet limited chamber wityba 701 in a flatwater freestyle setup. With 48mm carbs no less.. it looks very impressive. I'd be curious how he has it setup with water routing, ignition timing and fuel settings.

you should be fine with the wax setup. personally i set up all of my skis cooling lines the same. i run a seperate line from the pump directly to the headpipe instead of through the engine first. this way i can better control the headpipe and chamber temp with less water that isnt preheated...

the cooling goes into the engine from the manifold like the factory pipe one theres just no cooling passages in the manifold around the runners inside the manifold like the factory pipe manifold. theres just a small milled out area basically large enough for the fitting to mount on.

i like the sleekness of the xmetal pole. it looks excellent in my opinion on a hull with some curves. i think it looks better than the rrp pole but it all comes down to what length works best.

the thing im not really a fan of on the wax pipes are the manifold is the fact that theres no water passages in the manifold to keep it cooler. i do like that the outlet is solid so you can open up the header opening. they run pretty hot compared to the factory pipe manifold which is preferred...