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That would be easy on the lathe...!

You know you might have a problem when you blow the foam out of the back of your bar stool...!

She just turned 9 months old...! We went a "little" faster than mom would have liked...!

I might be able to fix that, if you're interested. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I made a Y in my harness that goes from the coil's bullet connectors to the module's Deutch connector. Used solder and heat shrink. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where did you find the plug for the Polaris relay...? Been looking for a while and haven't found the right one yet...

Good deal. Appreciate it. Now, we going fishing on the Boston Whaler or what?!

Yup, sorry here, too. You did say it was better to trim up though. That's why I felt compelled to explain how a planing hull works.

That act of getting on plane means you are starting from a slow speed where the boat is acting as a displacement hull and accelerating to plane where the boat is riding on top of the water instead of plowing through it.

Hub size...

Sounds like a plan. Can't you use the nozzle you took off to keep reverse, though? That seems like a little more important on an actual boat.

Trimming a boat up when at idle and trying to get to plane makes the bow point towards the sky. Engine has to work harder to push the boat up and over its bow wake before it can level off on plane. Trimming down lifts the rear of the boat while the front of the hull pushes itself up. Boat...

Trouble getting on plane...? Sounds like you need a lightened flywheel! And trimming up won't help get on plane. You want to keep the bow down initially...

Can you vouch for those PEX fittings being the right size? I feel like there dimensions are a little off...

I thought the manual said six inches. Mine are just under that and pretty sure the used brain I got five years ago is still running. I use and like the Deutch connectors and my brain sits inside a Pelican Case...

I've been using X Metal trim for 6 years. Never had a cable break like that. My problem has always been the rubber wears down to the plain steel core of the cable jacket, and then that quickly rusts so the jacket collapses when you pull the lever instead of the nozzle going up...

There was a previous discussion thread about the difference between flat water and surf barrel rolls. Something to do with the way freestyle hulls are built now makes that tail flail a barrel roll now.

Your pump seal should fill that gap. Can you see light through it?

You didn't find it because there is no such thing. The proper pressure needed is unique to everyone's individual setups. Disconnect the flow control valve from your stinger and put the ski in the water with the hood off. Run it, with something holding the ski, and see where the valve opens...

Anyone remember when Sunoco used to sell "94" octane at the pumps...? Think that was a scam?