which style, he had an early design and the current one that interferes with the pole bolt, early one was not flush with the hull in the front. pic is old style.
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Pic's of a WDK Razor hood please
- Thread starter Motorheads5
- Start date
oxnard111
Creative RE Purchasing
- Location
- so Cali, Ventura/Oxnard area
I most likely have the early version, although I remember it being pretty flush. (I haven't ridden or even looked at my ski in like 4 weeks). I remember nose piece having less angles on the inside "D" shape.
Now im a little bit more confused...As we know i just got my hood and nose yesterday. Realized last night that I need to trim the nose a little bit..no problem
Today for lunch I went home I took another look at the hood...the hood liner is hitting the stock exhaust. I would say i would need about another 1/4" just to clear the exhaust.
Anyone else have this happen with stock exhaust?
Today for lunch I went home I took another look at the hood...the hood liner is hitting the stock exhaust. I would say i would need about another 1/4" just to clear the exhaust.
Anyone else have this happen with stock exhaust?
Mark44
Katie's Boss
- Location
- 100% one place
Sounds like the perfect time for that B pipe purchase.
Mark44
Mark44
I would agree except for one itty bitty issue..Im out of money, Im already way over my budget. I had no plans on modifying the motor till next year at this time. Guess I running a stock hood till then
Mark44
Katie's Boss
- Location
- 100% one place
O
Yep nothing wrong with a stock hood they work the best IMO. You will gain more from a pipe than a hood anyway.
Mark44
Yep nothing wrong with a stock hood they work the best IMO. You will gain more from a pipe than a hood anyway.
Mark44
oxnard111
Creative RE Purchasing
- Location
- so Cali, Ventura/Oxnard area
or you could modify the liner to make it clear. my friend had to do that to get the dry pipe hood to clear his factory type 9
They don't clear the stock airbox rubber very well either, I had to clearance my hood there to avoid the rubber wearing out....Also had to shim the upper bolt on the hood pins so the thing would clear the front hood seal area and sit down properly.
oke:
oxnard111
Creative RE Purchasing
- Location
- so Cali, Ventura/Oxnard area
They don't clear the stock airbox rubber very well either, I had to clearance my hood there to avoid the rubber wearing out....Also had to shim the upper bolt on the hood pins so the thing would clear the front hood seal area and sit down properly.
WDK to the rescue.
When you say rubber, do you mean "plastic"? And are you referring to stock duals, or stock single?
I guess I got lucky with my carb setup and diablo hood. Running Riva conversion manifold, BJ 46, wamiltons OEM FA adapter, and stock single 44 FA plastic lid and screen. The plastic lid barely clears my cylinder head.
I have read about people having to do that shimming also.
- Location
- King of Prussia, PA
Maybe put a piece of turf where it's rubbing? I know you don't want to do this but what about just cutting out the area where it's touching and reglassing in a piece 1/4" higher?
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Thats what I ended up doing, then switched to Prok's...lol its a RN with stock duals
Motorheads5
Livin the generation gap
- Location
- ketchikan alaska
Where's the BEEF?
- Location
- Mechanicsburg, PA
I had to trim mine with the WDK bracket too. Unfortunately I'm impatient, tried to force it down and ended up spider crakcing it on one side. The WDK bracket is also a pain for removing the OEM pole bolt - needs to be a tad higher to clear with it bolted down.
oxnard111
Creative RE Purchasing
- Location
- so Cali, Ventura/Oxnard area
grind down one side of the head of the bolt, then rotate the bolt to the correct angle and tap the bolt out. it will clear the fiberglass of the ski.
- Location
- King of Prussia, PA
Yeah, that's a pain. I had to use a cresent wrech all the way out then slackin off the bracket to clear the hull. Oh well, better then having it pop out the top of the nose piece I guess.
- Location
- Nor cal
