Question on making a mold

[Shadow7874]

Id like to make a shorter ride plate for a future 550 project, and since its already off sitting in my shop i figure nows a good of time as any.

My question is which side should i use to make the mold? would i want to mold the site that bolts to the ski so it will fit good or the outisde so it will be smooth?

Anyone got some good pics of rideplate molds being made?

Perhaps i didnt search very well, so feel free to direct me to a good thread

 

[shawn_NJ]

What are you looking to mold the hull or a rideplate?

 

[Shadow7874]

What are you looking to mold the hull or a rideplate?

rideplate. Id like to make a fiberglass stock length d cut plate to try out. Right now i have an extended plate on my 550, which is great and all, but for my next project i want to try a dcut.

 

[shawn_NJ]

Here is the SGlass/kevlar plate I made a few months ago. First 2 are of the plug. I also sprayed the plug with duratec surface primer and wetsanded to 1500grit. Then waxed it 5 times with partall, before spraying PVA on the plug.

 

[#ZERO]

You can make both sides of the ride plate mold and clamp it together, just make sure the mold is at least twice as thick as the actual part and use some tooling gel coat.

Here's a picture of my first ride plate mold using the R&D Rius aluminum extended ride plate for the mold bottom.

For the top mold I fabricated some aluminum strips for the edges to keep the area flat where it bolts to the ski and used the actual bottom mold to make the top.

I used ultra white gel coat on both sides of the mold with 8oz cloth for the initial layer and used five layers of 1-1/2oz chop on both sides then sandwiched it together.

 

[SXIPro]

You can make both sides of the ride plate mold and clamp it together, just make sure the mold is at least twice as thick as the actual part and use some tooling gel coat.

Here's a picture of my first ride plate mold using the R&D Rius aluminum extended ride plate for the mold bottom.

For the top mold I fabricated some aluminum strips for the edges to keep the area flat where it bolts to the ski and used the actual bottom mold to make the top.

I used ultra white gel coat on both sides of the mold with 8oz cloth for the initial layer and used five layers of 1-1/2oz chop on both sides then sandwiched it together.

Honest to God man, is there anything you CAN'T make? Everything you attempt seems to come out better than the stuff made by Companies that do this crap for a living. arty:

 

[MADMAT]

Man Zero that plate on the far right looks very cool! Probably connects very nicely!

 

[#ZERO]

Patience is the key to making any part of good quality and a little experience doesn't hurt. :fingersx:

That was my first attempt at making a ride plate; it turned out a little thicker in the center and thinner at the rear edge.

The ride plate works extremely well with the trim making it easier to pull the lever and it handles pretty well too.

Also it's half the weight of my aluminum ride plate at 2.4-lbs.

 

[Shadow7874]

Now my main question. Can they be made with cheap polyester resin and mat from like homedepot? I know it wont be as strong or as light, but it would help get some experience with glass as well as the feel for a dcut plate.

 

[#ZERO]

You can use the cheapest polyester resin with chop mat and the ride plate will be plenty strong if you making it thick enough.

Most of the CF ride plates just use the carbon on outside layer just for the bling and they're not any stronger even with the expensive epoxy resins.

I would purchase the materials from a store that sells nothing but fiberglass supplies and stay away from the Home Depot or boat stores.

 

[Shadow7874]

You can use the cheapest polyester resin with chop mat and the ride plate will be plenty strong if you making it thick enough.

Most of the CF ride plates just use the carbon on outside layer just for the bling and they're not any stronger even with the expensive epoxy resins.

I would purchase the materials from a store that sells nothing but fiberglass supplies and stay away from the Home Depot or boat stores.

i already have glass and resin from homedepot that i used for a sub box long ago. As far as gell coat and mold release, will i be ok if i just sand and wax it really good? When i made my sub box all i had was masking tape over the carpet of my trunk and it made a clean mold.

 

[#ZERO]

The fiberglass from Home Depot is most likely thin cloth and it will take about 25-30 pieces for the part to be thick enough.

I'd get some 1-1/2oz chop mat if you're going to make a ride plate and you'll need some mold release such as PVA along with the wax.

 

[Pro-pulsion]

This is really cool guys, has anyone ever tried making a mold up for the nozzles? Maybe make them a bit thicker so the I.D. can be opened up to 44mm or more? Or even changing the location of the steering cable mount for faster turns? If so toss up some pics, would like to see any additional ideas on how to do this stuff.

 

[TOBY]

top mold

You can make both sides of the ride plate mold and clamp it together, just make sure the mold is at least twice as thick as the actual part and use some tooling gel coat.

Here's a picture of my first ride plate mold using the R&D Rius aluminum extended ride plate for the mold bottom.

For the top mold I fabricated some aluminum strips for the edges to keep the area flat where it bolts to the ski and used the actual bottom mold to make the top.

I used ultra white gel coat on both sides of the mold with 8oz cloth for the initial layer and used five layers of 1-1/2oz chop on both sides then sandwiched it together.

#0 how much skinner is your top mold than the bottom one,or did you take your molds off the top/bottom of the donnerplate then smoothed them out. mine is only one sided now but thinking about a top mold. dont mine to postdump just??????

 

[#ZERO]

Nice work on your ride plates :fing02:

I just used some aluminum L-channel strips on the edges of the bottom mold to make the top mold section.

Both top & bottom molds are three times thicker than the actual part to keep them from flexing when they're clamped down.

 

[infamy]

you can probably buy a used 550 ride plate for $20 or $30 and d-cut it. it will cost you more than that to make one unless you already have everything you need. IMO , not worth the time/hassle