CarFanatic
Fiberglassing Newb
- Location
- Cincinnati, OH
I"m about to pull my motor to put all my parts on. This will be the first time pulling my sj motor. Wondering if there were any tricks or tips!
tips on pulling motor
- Thread starter CarFanatic
- Start date
bign1514
"Rock-Man"
- Location
- Louisville, Ky
I sure others may have an easier way. But the way i go is
1. battery
2. gas tank
3. pipe
4. Unbolt the motor mounts and slide engine forward a little, and take off the positive battery cable from the starter. (wont get to far out with it still on)
5. pull engine
I always keep everything bolted to the engine when pulling (carbs, manifold, exhaust head pipe, etc). After the motor mounts are out, slide the engine forward off the coupling and take her out. I usually put a few short 2x4 across the try and rest the engine on, because if you don't take that electronics out before pulling the engine, you will only be able it take it so far because of the wires be connected to the CDI box still being bolted in. Once on the 2x4 right out of the hull, you can undo the flywheel, where the stator will be disconnect so your disconnected to the CDI. Make sure you go around and cut all the ties with the wires on it, so you are able to move the engine around with out any problem.
Takes me about 15 min with air tools.
others may have a simpler way.
1. battery
2. gas tank
3. pipe
4. Unbolt the motor mounts and slide engine forward a little, and take off the positive battery cable from the starter. (wont get to far out with it still on)
5. pull engine
I always keep everything bolted to the engine when pulling (carbs, manifold, exhaust head pipe, etc). After the motor mounts are out, slide the engine forward off the coupling and take her out. I usually put a few short 2x4 across the try and rest the engine on, because if you don't take that electronics out before pulling the engine, you will only be able it take it so far because of the wires be connected to the CDI box still being bolted in. Once on the 2x4 right out of the hull, you can undo the flywheel, where the stator will be disconnect so your disconnected to the CDI. Make sure you go around and cut all the ties with the wires on it, so you are able to move the engine around with out any problem.
Takes me about 15 min with air tools.
others may have a simpler way.
CarFanatic
Fiberglassing Newb
- Location
- Cincinnati, OH
So I assume you rest it up on wood piieces and do your work right there?
I"m installing
msd enhancer
b pipe
ada head
tbm flywheel
reeds
Anything else I should do why th motor is out?
I"m installing
msd enhancer
b pipe
ada head
tbm flywheel
reeds
Anything else I should do why th motor is out?
Mouthfulloflake
ISJWTA member #2
- Location
- NW Arkansas
undo the elec box from the mounting tabs, lay it over the head ( it rests between the plugs)
remove battery cables, remove the colling line fitting(s) at the bulkhead, start stop and kill connectors disconnected, remove fuel lines, remove throttle cable ( and choke if equipped)
disconnect what ever exhaust you have to either leave the manifold, or manifold and head pipe if you choose.'
slide forward, lift out ( make sure cables arent snagged on anything)
and set it on the work bench.
remove battery cables, remove the colling line fitting(s) at the bulkhead, start stop and kill connectors disconnected, remove fuel lines, remove throttle cable ( and choke if equipped)
disconnect what ever exhaust you have to either leave the manifold, or manifold and head pipe if you choose.'
slide forward, lift out ( make sure cables arent snagged on anything)
and set it on the work bench.
- Location
- So. IL
That is how I do it. 2 nuts and 2 connectors and the e-box lays on the head. Then you don't have to take the starter wire off which is hard to get to. The water lines on the manifold are harder to reach than at the bulkhead. This way is a lot easier in my opinion.
#ZERO
Beach Bum
- Location
- Florida - U.S.A.
If that's all the parts you're installing, I would leave the engine in and just pull the gas tank and e-box out IMHO.
SXIPro
JM781 Big Bore
- Location
- Here on the 'X' mostly
CarFanatic
Fiberglassing Newb
- Location
- Cincinnati, OH
I guess I could leave it in.. how hard is it to get to the reed cages??
If I leave it in, what should I start with first to make the process easy?
I wanna get all this in and running asap... sucks not having the ski running.. should be worth it though!
If I leave it in, what should I start with first to make the process easy?
I wanna get all this in and running asap... sucks not having the ski running.. should be worth it though!
Last edited:
Mouthfulloflake
ISJWTA member #2
- Location
- NW Arkansas
In my opinion, if you are removing andinstalling a flywheel.
i would spend the extra 10 minutes and remove the engine.
but thats just me.
i would spend the extra 10 minutes and remove the engine.
but thats just me.
#ZERO
Beach Bum
- Location
- Florida - U.S.A.
The hull makes a great engine stand and the tray is a nice work bench for your tools.
You may want to take e-box nuts loose first and see if the box will break free from the corrosion build up around the studs.
Then install them in this order; MSD Enhancer, TBM Flywheel, ADA Head, Reeds, and the B-Pipe last so the pipe doesn't get all scratched.
Also I would make some room in the engine compartment by removing the battery box, fuel tank, exhaust and intake manifold.
You may want to take e-box nuts loose first and see if the box will break free from the corrosion build up around the studs.
Then install them in this order; MSD Enhancer, TBM Flywheel, ADA Head, Reeds, and the B-Pipe last so the pipe doesn't get all scratched.
Also I would make some room in the engine compartment by removing the battery box, fuel tank, exhaust and intake manifold.
Not only would I leave the engine in, but I would also install them one at a time and test after each install so that you don't encounter the same problem many others have on here where they install five things and have problems and don't know where to look. Start with either the MSD or head and make sure the ski is still running right. Then go for the rest, saving the pipe for last, because that is the one that will likely require rejetting.
hangtime
Speak up ,don't kiss azz
- Location
- WORCESTER,MASS- HAMPTON N.H.
I can remove my engine in about 10 minutes with my quick disconnects on my water and fuel lines and my JSS battery stud kit and bullet connectors on my stator wires .
Honestly,those are some of the best mods I ever did .
No ignition box sitting on your motor ,no leaking fuel and no starter wire underneath to mess with .
Honestly,those are some of the best mods I ever did .
No ignition box sitting on your motor ,no leaking fuel and no starter wire underneath to mess with .
accbr
addicted
- Location
- Lexington, KY
You could leave the motor in, and install all that stuff. Bring it down here if you need any help. You gotta pull the tank to install the pipe, and you can swap the flywheel while the tank is out of the way.
CarFanatic
Fiberglassing Newb
- Location
- Cincinnati, OH
well. maybe I will try with the motor in. I just thought it be easier to pull the motor out.. but I guess I'll pull the tank out and start with the enhancer.