Saturday is the day.... Secret Spot is the location...
Sunday the swell will be down from 6ft to 3ft and it will happen fast once the wind switches... Hopefully it won't switch till Sunday morning, not Saturday night...
The Surf Station Surf Forecast:
(Updated 9/5 pm)
The building NE swell will be the rule through the work week with
waves notching up into the bumpy 2-occ 3' range by Thursday due to a lengthy fetch of NE wind on the topside of a strong/slow moving low circulating in the Atlantic 350 or so miles east of Florida
. The
Gray's Reef buoy southeast of Savannah indicates short/moderate period NE wind swell in the 3-4' range, a product of the
fetch of NE wind off the Ga/SC/Fla coast. The NE swell will build through the end of the work week, then slowly diminish while cleaning up some for the weekend.
Here is the NWS wx forecast (with my editing in parenthesis) discussing the building sizeable NE ground swell (bad news for swimmers and boaters = good news for surfers):
MARINE...NE WINDS WILL INCREASE TO AROUND 15 KNOTS OVERNIGHT WITH SEAS/
SWELLS STARTING TO BUILD TO 4-5 FT RANGE ACROSS THE ATLC WATERS. SEA HEIGHTS WILL FURTHER BUILD THURSDAY INTO FRIDAY WITH PERSISTENT NELY WINDS AND SWELLS GENERATED FROM ATLANTIC LOW. ANTICIPATE NEEDING CAUTION STATEMENTS BY LATER ON THURSDAY AND SCA FOR SEA HEIGHTS BY LATE THURSDAY NIGHT OR EARLY FRIDAY.
SEAS WILL REMAIN ELEVATED INTO THE UPCOMING WEEKEND WITH GRADUAL IMPROVEMENT EXPECTED SUNDAY INTO MONDAY. LONG PERIOD SWELLS WILL MEAN THE RIP CURRENT DANGER WILL BE ELEVATED LATE WEEK THROUGH THE UPCOMING WEEKEND.
Hybrid lows forming in the Atlantic just to our east, unseasonably early cold fronts, and mini-nor'easters sponsored by a weather pattern very similar to what we experienced in early June, will produce a multiple-day run of sizeable NE swell. This is a very good thing in the absense of significant tropical systems
in the western Atlantic.Speaking of the tropics, the
GOES storm floater is monitoring the disorganized remenants of once super-hurricane Felix swhirling harmlessly over Central America. Felix never was a factor for us and we didn't need him anyway, because here is the
5-Day Forecast with the surf building size nicely while gradually cleaning up some through the forecast period as the onshore flow eases off toward the weekend. -Dean