I need some knowledgeable opinions on 61x versus 62T -64X cylinders

waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
@waxhead HST will put whatever jets in at whatever popoff settings I request.

So, if I buy your Thruster Exhaust for a 62t, and your intake manifold for the 62t and your manifold plate adapters for 46mm dual carbs,

What jets and what popoff settings (etc?) should I request from HST?
ok i would go for a 2.3 n/s 90 gram spring
140 low and a 120 high
this would be my starting setup
 

waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
Did anybody check with SUPERJET-113 to see if makes the 0.010 base gaskets?
Good point. i mean its the easier way if you dont want to machine. the bad thing is you are dropping the transfers down as well as the exhaust and thesea re already weak spots. I would be asking for a slightly thicker gasket than standard myself and machining more.
 
@waxhead I don't see on your website a Zeel, much less a Zeel with your V3 timing curve built in.

Would you kindly provide a link for where to buy it?

Question: If I buy the Zeel with your V3 timing curve built in, can I later fine tune or change the timing curve for a different engine, set up, etc.?

Additional x-h2o.com info. on squish:

 
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waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
www.zeeltronic.com

 
Location
dfw
You should be able to get the squish tight enough with the metal 760 gasket. I like to custom cut 64u heads. According to the books, the squish is a little wide with OEM fiber gaskets but I’ve never burned a piston. ADA heads are ever popular, I would use one if they used a 760 metal gasket. Not sure how necessary the girdle feature is, I’ve never broken a cyl or ever known anyone who has.
 
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ok i would go for a 2.3 n/s 90 gram spring
140 low and a 120 high
this would be my starting setup
I've just been setting up my 46s for my smaller motor and this is basically where I am at for jetting.

Thought the 140 pilot was too fat but tried dropping it down again without success.

Had a 117.5 main and was a little lean and missing top end, just threw a 135 is and it's definitely richer that needs to be, 125 then maybe 120 to see how it reacts.

(46s, 760, 155mm, 6/10 prop, msd)

You should be able to get the squish tight enough with the metal 760 gasket. I like to custom cut 64u heads. According to the books, the squish is a little wide with OEM fiber gaskets but I’ve never burned a piston. ADA heads are ever popular, I would use one if they used a 760 metal gasket. Not sure how necessary the girdle feature is, I’ve never broken a cyl or ever known anyone who has.
I was curious about running a milled top cylinder with and ada head and a single layer metal gasket in between to see how the water routing might work, always seemed weird the oems had little holes but these AM heads have tons of flow (wondered how equal the cooling really is or if there are hot spots)
 
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waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
I've just been setting up my 46s for my smaller motor and this is basically where I am at for jetting.

Thought the 140 was too fat but tried dropping it down again without success.

Had a 117.5 main and was a little lean and missing top end, just threw a 135 is and it's definitely richer that needs to be, 125 then maybe 120 to see how it reacts.

(46s, 760, 155mm, 6/10 prop, msd)


I was curious about running a milled top cylinder with and ada head and a single layer metal gasket in between to see how the water routing might work, always seemed weird the oems had little holes but these AM heads have tons of flow (wondered how equal the cooling really is or if there are hot spots)
Youa re talkinag about water control and yes I thought about this a lot years ago. I used to worry about it a lot but it never seemed to be an issue and when i came out with out head a few months ago i didnt do it. I mean i could have changed it slightly to make more flow across the cylinder but its never really effected them from what i can see. you had a 140 top in it ?? damn that is rich
 

waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
You should be able to get the squish tight enough with the metal 760 gasket. I like to custom cut 64u heads. According to the books, the squish is a little wide with OEM fiber gaskets but I’ve never burned a piston. ADA heads are ever popular, I would use one if they used a 760 metal gasket. Not sure how necessary the girdle feature is, I’ve never broken a cyl or ever known anyone who has.
ON a lites boat a 760 cylinder with the smallest base gasket you can find. I have a laser cutter so i made my own and a stock 760 head gasket the squish was to big, That being said they have a squish relief in the head so removing that would tighten it up some what, I use aftermarket girdle heads to lock it together, i have seen plenty of skis with broken cylinders. its main surf riding over here that could be why
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
On an unrelated note . . .

Eureka!!!
View attachment 458072
don't understand your reasoning
Along with my @SUPERJET-113 gaskets too!
Wait , you posted something unrelated , no freaking way !

While I am always an advocate for open discussion on this forum or any other forum I do have to say I don't understand your reasoning for taking this thread off on so many different tangents , as usual it seems that you have a lot of questions , that is good but for the benefit of everyone else who sees this thread somewhere down the road can you ar least try to stay on subject , yeah , yeah I know I am asking a lot !
 
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john zigler

Vendor Account
Location
wisconsin
Hey Watcon, I've been running stock 44's, Art at Jetworks changed the angle of the throttle plates and that's it, they run on a 61X/62T big bore setup 771, what aftermarket carbs would you recommend? Motor has ported cyl and ported case, Bpipe, MSD enhanser and Solas BH 12/18. prop. thnx!
If Art modded your carbs, they are now better than stock. Regular off the shelf universal 44's are really good. OEM carb are just that. They are designed to meet OEM Specs, and EPA standards. The low speed circuit is different than performance carbs.
 

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
I've just been setting up my 46s for my smaller motor and this is basically where I am at for jetting.

Thought the 140 pilot was too fat but tried dropping it down again without success.

Had a 117.5 main and was a little lean and missing top end, just threw a 135 is and it's definitely richer that needs to be, 125 then maybe 120 to see how it reacts.

(46s, 760, 155mm, 6/10 prop, msd)


I was curious about running a milled top cylinder with and ada head and a single layer metal gasket in between to see how the water routing might work, always seemed weird the oems had little holes but these AM heads have tons of flow (wondered how equal the cooling really is or if there are hot spots)

I am running 771, TL, dual 46s, 148 pump, tnt chamber, 21psi, 135pilot, 105 main and she still feels rich on the top end.
 

waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
I am running 771, TL, dual 46s, 148 pump, tnt chamber, 21psi, 135pilot, 105 main and she still feels rich on the top end.
Something else is wrong, there is no way that it would be rich at the point up top. I would say maybe you have to much water in there. a drippling needle and seat. maybe to much of a smaller restiction in the return. whats is the igniton curve you have in it ?? As a indication I have a ported 760 with the same specs as a downloadable port timing spec on the site. it has 46mm carbs and they are running 140 lows and 120 highs 20 psi pop off. it revs hard to 7200-7300 depending on the day and i hits hard.
 

waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
If Art modded your carbs, they are now better than stock. Regular off the shelf universal 44's are really good. OEM carb are just that. They are designed to meet OEM Specs, and EPA standards. The low speed circuit is different than performance carbs.
When people ask me why I rate the 46 mm Mikuni SBN so highly, it comes down to the balance between signal, throttle response, and airflow. Group K did a really detailed article on racing carburetors, and their numbers back this up.


On their flowbench, the 46 showed a much stronger pilot signal than the 44 (34.8 vs 30). That doesn’t sound huge until you ride it — the pilot circuit is what controls throttle response and mid-range fueling. The 46 reacts sharper and cleaner when you crack the throttle open, where the 44 just doesn’t have the same crispness in the curve.


At wide open, the 46 still shows a strong 46 main signal (the 44 comes in at 49), so it meters well up top. The real kicker is airflow — the 46 flows 253 CFM vs 230 for the 44. That extra headroom means the 46 can support bigger engines and higher rpm without going rich and falling flat.


Now I’m not saying the OEM 44 is the same as an aftermarket 44, but when you’re looking at cost, the comparison changes. The OEM 44 is a cheap upgrade and works okay, but if the price of a 44 is close to a 46, the 44 just pales from a performance perspective. It’s always going to be limited compared to what a 46 can do.


That’s why I push the 46 mm SBN — it’s got better throttle response, easier tuning, more airflow, and real-world rideability. And the Group K data really underlines it. In practice that means quicker holeshot, stronger mid-range, and more forgiving setup than the 44 can ever deliver.
 
Location
dfw
On small engines, I can tune SBN44s a little cleaner at 1/4 throttle and still have response when compared to SBN46. Both are nearly identical and work well for standups. I can’t understand why people throw rocks at I-body carbs yet love their aftermarket hatchet jobs. Many of them are just that.
 
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