300/440/550 x-2 front /bottom fill

tom21

havin fun
Location
clearwater FL
I am making a bottom front fill. you will apply some 5200 or thickened resin to bond the foam( much like a sponson(tubbie) and then a few layers of glass should be it. the green is a release chemical that I left on so you can see it better. still need a little sanding on the edge to fit flush and I am working on a way to perfect the foam still. its a little thick in the rear. no biggie- its the first one. it will sit flush with the front and sides and just be a slight step across the rear. nothing a little glassing can't make better.

This mod will help lift the nose of the ski, that void creates suction or drag to keep the nose down which is great for racing but not so much for freestyle.

These will work even better with the front sponsons I make.

I am also working on a shaved, better breather setup hood.

and of course it will need the dash cover to go with it.

lastly I want to remake the stock rideplate without the downward angle to again let the nose lift more.

Front fill 195.00 shipped. white gelcoat and foamed.
 

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tom21

havin fun
Location
clearwater FL
more pics
 

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tom21

havin fun
Location
clearwater FL
if you would like a set please post it here, my inbox is about 2 pms shy of being full most days.

I will be doing a step by step install of the front fill and sponsons and then I can free my x-2, blow out the dust and go ride it!
 

Trinity Composites

Lightweight Evolution
Location
Palm Bay, FL
Nice, good idea. If you put (3)1" ports down the center of your compression mold/clamp it would give you better foam tolerences. It would also allow you to feed foam in the front to the back from hole to hole in multiple pours. As the foam expands cover the hole with masking tape to give you the compression needed to get the proper density. It should take 2 to 3 pours per side. You'll end up with a more uniformed part as well. Just my 2 cents.
 
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Trinity Composites

Lightweight Evolution
Location
Palm Bay, FL
Also try bolting the center a inch or so outside the part perimeter instead of using weight. Bolt every six inches. Then tape the outside perimeter closed with duct tape and use more clamps. All this will give you more control and better tolerences of the foaming. Again great idea, looks good.
 
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tom21

havin fun
Location
clearwater FL
justin and jeff- you guys had to know you were on the list already.:shhh:

Thanks for the tips Bobby- it has been hectic to say the least and I have been trying to move as fast as possible. I have been so sick of looking at it I just had to knock one out just to see it done and see what needed more attention. it was fast and loose. I will bolt it- never would have done that. the extra holes are a good idea. much easier than holding it while someone poured.

QUOTE=Twinturbostang;757546]Whats up with the hood? are you making them now too?[/QUOTE] if things go my way then yes. and before everyone goes off on what esle needs to be done- its still being worked its not finished yet. I have to make an inside lip to locate it on the seal and build a stiffener at the same time.

Yeah Charlie- somebody has to do it. someday I will get around to some square parts too. lots of em out there and not much for them.
 

shawn_NJ

Chasing waves.
Location
Daytona Beach
Post up pics when its done. How long till your riding? Every weekend I am starting to debate firing the skis up...lol

Question for tom, do you PVA the top piece of the mold, to get the 2part foam to release nicely? I have another project I wanted to foam fill to take an impression, but I want the foam to release cleanly. Thanks!
 
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