why 1-3 turf weldwood coats?

Ericfox

Do it twice?That's DooDoo
Why do some people put one coat on the ski and one on the turf?
Then others put 2 on the turf and 2 on the ski?
Then others put 3 on the turf and 2 on the ski? and so on and so on....

Has anyone actually tried to figure out how many coats of weldwood you really need for best results? and what is overkill?

I remember someone saying that 2 on the turf is good and 1 on the ski is good because the ski is non-porous...

Is the reason for putting more than one coat on because the surfaces absorb some of the glue?

Do you put the same amount of coats of glue on the padding before you apply the turf to it?

Thanks... going to be turfing this weekend, so I want to figure out these questions before-hand...
 
Last edited:

hangtime

Speak up ,don't kiss azz
For a porous surface (turf) you can use 2 or more coats but for a non porous surface (hull) you must use only 1 coat becasue if you put it too thick on a non porous surface you actually weaken the bond .

Hope this helps,I use contact cement a lot at work and have used it dozens oftimes and this method works the best .1 coat with a roller on non porous and 2-3 coats on the porous surface .
 
Last edited:
I just apply it wait 20 minutes and touch it with my finger. If it's tacky and my finger sticks a little I'm set. If not I'll throw another coat on. Usually 3 for the turf and 1 (sometimes a light 2nd coat) for the hull.
 

hangtime

Speak up ,don't kiss azz
When you think it's dry enough have another beer just to make sure .Applying before it's dry is the worst thing you can do .And no smoking around this stuff either .

You should be able to touch the glue and nothing comes off on your finger and that's when it's dry enough .Tacky is not dry enough :bigok:
 

Ericfox

Do it twice?That's DooDoo
When you think it's dry enough have another beer just to make sure .Applying before it's dry is the worst thing you can do .And no smoking around this stuff either .

You should be able to touch the glue and nothing comes off on your finger and that's when it's dry enough .Tacky is not dry enough :bigok:

I thought the glue was supposed to be tacky when dry --> just not wet.... what's your definition of tacky? maybe mine is different...

as long as it doesnt smudge when you touch it...

Oh... and is it really beneficial to sand the hydroturf before putting cement on it? Why would you sand something that is already porous?

Thanks again guys.
 
Last edited:

Mike W

Infidel
Location
North Florida
I thought the glue was supposed to be tacky when dry --> just not wet.... what's your definition of tacky? maybe mine is different...

as long as it doesnt smudge when you touch it...

Oh... and is it really beneficial to sand the hydroturf before putting cement on it? Why would you sand something that is already porous?

Thanks again guys.

I do 2 and 2. I found that the glue sticks better if you sand the turf. You just want to rough it up a little. Don't ask why, it just does.

The glue need to look and feel like its dry, not tacky. of course these are just my observations and experiences with it. You will get 10 other different opinions.
 
The last few skis I have turfed, I used contact cement and a heat gun. The heat gun really speeds up the process! Put the glue down, then hit it with the heat gun and lay the turf. Super fast and have never had a problem with the turf coming off.
 

onesojourner

I use a thumb throttle.
Location
springfield, mo
2 is not over kill. Your not going to have a less effective bond by doing 2 coats. I do 2 mainly to be sure I got everything covered well. If you let the glue dry to long putting on another coat will reactivate it.
 

Ericfox

Do it twice?That's DooDoo
Sounds good. I will put 2 on the ski and 2 on the turf... might as well... since I have to wait for the 2nd coat on the turf to dry anyways... might as well just coat both with a 2nd coat

I know this is a simple question, but:

you put the glue on the whole piece of turf, but there will be some on the spots that will be over hanging the areas that you want to apply it to.... then you put it on the ski in the areas you want to bond to....

What makes the turf not stick to the parts of the ski that you DONT want it to bond to? Will the glue really not bond to the ski since the parts you dont want it to bond to do not have any glue?

Thanks
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Contact cement will only bond to more contact cement when dry.

hence the name Contact............


also, the reason for sanding the hull and the turf is the give the glue the ablility to get a Mechanical Bond not just a chemical......... The grooves allow the glue to "grab" ahold of the surface..........

We do not just pull this mess out of our asses......... I have done turf jobs where I did not sand and they held up ok, where they did not hold up for crap.... and where you have had to use a razer scrape to get the turf off when sanded really good.......

oh, and when you are ready to apply the turf to the hull, stop right there, go get a beer.......... drink slowly, if you have to drink fast go ahead and grab another beer................... The biggest mistake everybody makes is rushing the job..........


If you still doubt some of these responses, PM Crammit or SFLSurfrider, they are by far the 2 best turfers I have come across..........
 
Y

yamaslut

Guest
I put 2-3 coats on the turf and 2 on the tray...

let it dry for 30-40 min and go to town..

too little of cement is way worse than too much... You will never have too much...
 

Ericfox

Do it twice?That's DooDoo
Thanks guys...

Who says turfing all the way around the nose is the way to go? who says putting the stock nose bumper back on is the best option?

Do you push the turf into the foothold and make a triangle shaped cut and then fill it in with a little piece? I am going to try and turf with one single piece on both sides like the thread "turfing with no seems" from the FAQ. He didnt describe that part very well, unless I missed it....

Last question... do you guys put padding on the who bottom of the tray including inside the footholds? I saw one or two pics while searching around that showed that they cut the pad away from where their feet would be in the footholds. You do put padding on top of the rails and in around the top inside of the foothold right?

I should be good to go after I get these answered....
tomorrow is the day! Can't wait to get my ski looking more like a ski again!!!!
 

Frosty

New York Crew
Location
Western New York
I turfed the nose of my ski - mainly to cover fiberglass repair work i had to do from smashing into the bottom too many times.

no padding on the rails...

when i turf the tray area sides i cut my turf using a template, then leave the area where the footholds are extra long then use a heat gun to heat up the turf and basically "push" it in to allow the turf to mold to the inside of the foothold. No cuts. Start by the bulkead and work the turf back until you reach the foothold area, then use the heat gun to heat up the turf. It takes some practice though... the turf will split if you try to stretch it too much.

However, this last time i turfed i extended my holds out to add more "overhang" for my foot... so i had to cut my turf a little and scab in a piece.

I used 25mm under pad on my tray, including into the footholds however, before i glued the padding in i sanded the foothold area of the pad so that it tappered down from 25mm to about 12mm. I made it to fit fairly snug.

You can also pad the top side of the foothold to make an even tighter fit. it all comes down to preference and comfort.
 

Attachments

  • SP_A0293.jpg
    SP_A0293.jpg
    104.9 KB · Views: 28
  • 01sj9.jpg
    01sj9.jpg
    75.3 KB · Views: 40
Last edited:
Top Bottom