OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
My blue carbon sure is purdy, Price was right too! Will I notice a power difference after tuning? Probably not.
BLING! BLING! Now, doesn't that look fast!
Here's a couple of questions for you guys. The "carbon" pipes look real cool and are perhaps a little lighter than its aluminum counterpart but, what's really "binding" that carbon together? Epoxy? It must be some special High Temp rated resin. If not, the chamber (binding resins) itself will start to get soft at around 200 degrees F(see note below). Water (fresh water at sea level) boils at 212 degrees F, and Factory Pipe recommends when tuning your pipe to make drips of water just "sizzle" on the chamber after a hard test run. How does one go about that test on the "carbon" pipe? Do you set it up with the aluminum chamber first, check for the "sizzle", then switch chambers?
Here's a quote from the West Systems manual...(and I imagine most standard epoxy's have the same properties).
Removing fiberglass cloth applied with epoxy
Use a heat gun to heat and soften the epoxy. Start in a small area a near a corner or edge. Apply heat until you can slip a putty knife or chisel under the cloth (about 200°F). Grab the edge with a pair of pliers and pull up on the cloth while heating just ahead of the separation. On large areas, use a utility knife to score the glass and remove in narrower strips. Resulting surface texture may be coated or remaining epoxy may be removed as follows.
Removing cured epoxy coating
Use a heat gun to soften the epoxy (200°F). Heat a small area and use a paint or cabinet scraper to remove the bulk of the coating. Sand the surface to remove the remaining material. Provide ventilation when heating epoxy.
Visit www.westsystem.com to learn more about West System Epoxy 3
Where do I get some of this "Special Chamber" resin?[/quote]+
I'd contact the same guy that sold Jack his beanstalk beans :Banane25:
Here's a couple of questions for you guys. The "carbon" pipes look real cool and are perhaps a little lighter than its aluminum counterpart but, what's really "binding" that carbon together? Epoxy? It must be some special High Temp rated resin. If not, the chamber (binding resins) itself will start to get soft at around 200 degrees F(see note below). Water (fresh water at sea level) boils at 212 degrees F, and Factory Pipe recommends when tuning your pipe to make drips of water just "sizzle" on the chamber after a hard test run. How does one go about that test on the "carbon" pipe? Do you set it up with the aluminum chamber first, check for the "sizzle", then switch chambers?
Here's a quote from the West Systems manual...(and I imagine most standard epoxy's have the same properties).
Removing fiberglass cloth applied with epoxy
Use a heat gun to heat and soften the epoxy. Start in a small area a near a corner or edge. Apply heat until you can slip a putty knife or chisel under the cloth (about 200°F). Grab the edge with a pair of pliers and pull up on the cloth while heating just ahead of the separation. On large areas, use a utility knife to score the glass and remove in narrower strips. Resulting surface texture may be coated or remaining epoxy may be removed as follows.
Removing cured epoxy coating
Use a heat gun to soften the epoxy (200°F). Heat a small area and use a paint or cabinet scraper to remove the bulk of the coating. Sand the surface to remove the remaining material. Provide ventilation when heating epoxy.
Visit www.westsystem.com to learn more about West System Epoxy 3
Where do I get some of this "Special Chamber" resin?[/quote]+
I'd contact the same guy that sold Jack his beanstalk beans :Banane25:
Thanks for the tip (it's the best answer I've got so far... :261:is the BIG secret?).
Meanwhile, I sent the GF over to ask the neighbor about this "Special Chamber Resin".