Wamilton carbon pipe

CP Watercraft

CP Watercraft

Pro Rider
Location
New Jersey, Bayville
I was there when paul Lehr tested the pipe out and actually he had pancakepete tested it out and lost the bottom end by 10%..many be it makes more power top end but not for bottom end not that hard hitting crisp that evryone wants..like the aluminum pipe does..plus its all by feel when u compare bottom end.. because you cant dnyo bottom end...never get the right reading..
 
Flash-FX

Flash-FX

No Square..No Round..FX-1
Location
South Jersey Shore
Here's a couple of questions for you guys. The "carbon" pipes look real cool and are perhaps a little lighter than its aluminum counterpart but, what's really "binding" that carbon together? Epoxy? It must be some special High Temp rated resin. If not, the chamber (binding resins) itself will start to get soft at around 200 degrees F(see note below). Water (fresh water at sea level) boils at 212 degrees F, and Factory Pipe recommends when tuning your pipe to make drips of water just "sizzle" on the chamber after a hard test run. How does one go about that test on the "carbon" pipe? Do you set it up with the aluminum chamber first, check for the "sizzle", then switch chambers?

Here's a quote from the West Systems manual...(and I imagine most standard epoxy's have the same properties).

Removing fiberglass cloth applied with epoxy
Use a heat gun to heat and soften the epoxy. Start in a small area a near a corner or edge. Apply heat until you can slip a putty knife or chisel under the cloth (about 200°F). Grab the edge with a pair of pliers and pull up on the cloth while heating just ahead of the separation. On large areas, use a utility knife to score the glass and remove in narrower strips. Resulting surface texture may be coated or remaining epoxy may be removed as follows.

Removing cured epoxy coating
Use a heat gun to soften the epoxy (200°F). Heat a small area and use a paint or cabinet scraper to remove the bulk of the coating. Sand the surface to remove the remaining material. Provide ventilation when heating epoxy.
Visit www.westsystem.com to learn more about West System Epoxy 3

Where do I get some of this "Special Chamber" resin?
 
GIL

GIL

Power In The Hands Of Few
Location
Cullman AL
MADMAT said:
I was told a few years ago by Paul L and others that the carbon chamber actually seemed to give up 10% or so of punch off the bottom end. No biggie on the motors they were running I guess but any percent is unacceptable to me.
Click to expand...

CP Watercraft said:
I was there when paul Lehr tested the pipe out and actually he had pancakepete tested it out and lost the bottom end by 10%..many be it makes more power top end but not for bottom end not that hard hitting crisp that evryone wants..like the aluminum pipe does..plus its all by feel when u compare bottom end.. because you cant dnyo bottom end...never get the right reading..
Click to expand...

MADMAT said:
And it ALL about bottom/mid IMO and I ain't givin up NONE!!! Let alone paying to give it up:crying:
Click to expand...


I really don't get this 10% bottom end loss crap??? WTF??? If any of u want to come to Smith Lake I will help u 'blind test' and I will be willing to bet my ski you cannot tell which chamber is under the hood!!! (the 'blind test' will require the test rider wearing ear plugs because the carbon chambers do sound different).
 
GIL

GIL

Power In The Hands Of Few
Location
Cullman AL
This is the part of the X that blows-joe dirt says chamber A is bad becasue he heard that thru the grapevine. Truth-joe dirt wouldnt know a good running ski if it hit him upside the head and joe dirt has never even seen chamber A, much less run chamber A, but he is now an expert. LOL

If you want validity to my claim of no power loss-Crammit GAVE me the carbon chamber I am running and would not even allow me to pay shipping!!! He says we will NEVER make another one and has none to sell-sooooo-what is the point in me lying about the carbon chamber?
 
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yamanube

yamanube

This Is The Way
Staff member
Location
Mandalor
Another pissing match, between people who have never tried but insist it makes less power (and keyboard cowboys like 750sx throw around info they know nothing about) and people who have tried (never said they make more power) but somehow are discredited because of heresay. I didn't pay outrageous amounts for my carbon chamber, Gill payed nothing, we are getting nothing out of saying "the dry pipe does not make less power" but we have run both chambers.

CP Watercraft said:
I was there when paul Lehr tested the pipe out and actually he had pancakepete tested it out and lost the bottom end by 10%..many be it makes more power top end but not for bottom end not that hard hitting crisp that evryone wants..like the aluminum pipe does..plus its all by feel when u compare bottom end.. because you cant dnyo bottom end...never get the right reading..
Click to expand...
 
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yamanube

yamanube

This Is The Way
Staff member
Location
Mandalor
The, "I have no experience on the subject, act like I know what I am talking about and you are wrong" attitude is tired.
 
waterfreak

waterfreak

I had a vision!
Location
s florida
Flash-FX said:
Here's a couple of questions for you guys. The "carbon" pipes look real cool and are perhaps a little lighter than its aluminum counterpart but, what's really "binding" that carbon together? Epoxy? It must be some special High Temp rated resin. If not, the chamber (binding resins) itself will start to get soft at around 200 degrees F(see note below). Water (fresh water at sea level) boils at 212 degrees F, and Factory Pipe recommends when tuning your pipe to make drips of water just "sizzle" on the chamber after a hard test run. How does one go about that test on the "carbon" pipe? Do you set it up with the aluminum chamber first, check for the "sizzle", then switch chambers?

Here's a quote from the West Systems manual...(and I imagine most standard epoxy's have the same properties).

Removing fiberglass cloth applied with epoxy
Use a heat gun to heat and soften the epoxy. Start in a small area a near a corner or edge. Apply heat until you can slip a putty knife or chisel under the cloth (about 200°F). Grab the edge with a pair of pliers and pull up on the cloth while heating just ahead of the separation. On large areas, use a utility knife to score the glass and remove in narrower strips. Resulting surface texture may be coated or remaining epoxy may be removed as follows.

Removing cured epoxy coating
Use a heat gun to soften the epoxy (200°F). Heat a small area and use a paint or cabinet scraper to remove the bulk of the coating. Sand the surface to remove the remaining material. Provide ventilation when heating epoxy.
Visit www.westsystem.com to learn more about West System Epoxy 3

Where do I get some of this "Special Chamber" resin?
Click to expand...

Who said we use epoxy for this application!! There are other resins with much higher temp settings.

I have runned both and can't tell a difference.
 
750SX

750SX

DO IT
Location
Palmyra
yamanube said:
Another pissing match, between people who have never tried but insist it makes less power (and keyboard cowboys like 750sx throw around info they know nothing about) and people who have tried (never said they make more power) but somehow are discredited because of heresay. I didn't pay outrageous amounts for my carbon chamber, Gill payed nothing, we are getting nothing out of saying "the dry pipe does not make less power" but we have run both chambers.
Click to expand...

Your a funny guy yamaNUBE, btw where did you get your education? I've got nothing to prove, I didn't want this guy to waste $500 on a carbon chamber.

Can you honestly say the carbon chamber gives a $370 improvement in this guy's case?
 
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N

nvdutch

Location
Henderson,nv
Exactly. If their is no significant increase from the carbon there is no reason to pay exta for it !!

And I dont have a 6k $ ,motor so the powerfactor pipe wouldnt work well for me .
 
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