Tiny Gas tanks

D-Roc

I forgot!
lol you sure? that thing made his cracked hull with the reinforcing removed hold up for ever. you can see the cracks on the hull in the pic....there where more near the back end of the hood opening. make the brace just a tad bit tight and put small plates inbetween the brace and hull to spread out the pressure. try it i doubt you will be dissapointed.
 

D-Roc

I forgot!
have you ever seen smitty ride? this is his old hull, you can still see a bit of the orange paint. lol. this hull is beat!!! Steve has nailed rolls off 4' waves and has slapped this thing over and over and over learning his flatwater rolls, that is what did most of the damage, surf was easy for him to get around the flatwater is what really did this hull in. That hood is waterfreaks and it is strong as hell and it has stress cracks all over it. Still solid! but it has taken a beating. Steve spent alot of time reinforcing the inside of his hull this winter but it seperated after time and then he didn't want to pull the motor out to fix it so that where the brace came from. holding up strong now. before we could flex the side of his hull in about 1 1/2 inches. lol. i like the taste of resin too.
 
Tru, One pancake on a flare attempt on a V-wake and I cracked my hull in half, and blew out a Waterdawg liner (it was overrotated I think). All it takes is one bad move. :banghead:

I will stick with Carbon reinforcement.... thanks anyways though :biggrin:
 

D-Roc

I forgot!
i hear ya i am not sure if it is possible but maybe his hull is so weaken over the years that unless he puts 20lbs of reinforcement on that side it keeps popping off. carbon kevlar, fiberglass, both have eventually come loose. just thought you may wanna shed some pounds on your next project. put one on your hull for ********s and giggles and whack it with a rubber mallet..... i am telling ya it makes it strong. steve even has his hood so that it cranks down super tight which you would think would help get rid of the flex at the top of hull. that really is the weak spot when it comes to under and over rotating rolls. Just throwing out some ideas. take it with a grain of salt.
 

Roo

it's all good
Site Supporter
FL-cracker, do you have any pics of your small tank in the engine bay?

just curious how you have the straps done (along with the battery).

Regards,
Andrew
 
By the end of this year I need to figure out how to upload pics :banghead:

The battery I just used a foam sanding block, and a knot or two in one strap to hold it in place.

For the tank I use one OEM strap with a couple knots, and I drilled a hole in a piece of 3/4" wide aluminum screwed it into one hull insert, and drilled a hole for a bungy.... then ran a bungy across the tank and through strap that holds the battery..... ghetto yet efective.... I will try to get some pics asap...

Mayby riverrat/Hunter can give some shots of how he did his tank.... its similar, and probably even a little better as far as mounting locations.
 

D-Roc

I forgot!
Droc - Start stop to tray? Steve is out of control.....

well he just ordered a trim nozzle and x-metal pole and stuff so he wants his bars clean with just two levers on it, a guy we ride with alread has a push start in his tray and works great, steve has a TL and uses the switch to kill the motor because his red button is faulty. for him it just makes sence, there is no real gain performance wise except people will have a harder time stealing his ski because they can't find the start button.:biggrin: once he moves his battery back no sence in keeping all the heavy battery cables so he plans on shortening them too. Cart tank, x-metal waterbox, 5.4lbs battery/relocate, 2 1/2" shortend hull, ski-shack special fiberglass rideplate, and trim nozzle. i wonder where he is going with all this? lol.
 
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