Well a routine prop change has turned into a nightmare.I broke a 1 26 mm wench.Rounded the shoulders of the prop with another.Pissed me off and used a 48 " pipe wrench and Broke a 70 pound Vice.Used heat every thing from mild to real hot to glowing.Froze it in the freezer. I guess I 'm in the market for a new pump.The shaft is still true . Can I cut the Mother *&^&^$^ off with a ziz wheel......I've never seen it done. I'm sure my new impros hooker 9x15 would have run great......Open for any ideas.
There is a special HELL for people that don't use anti sease
- Thread starter sportfish258
- Start date
I stand corrected I did a search and found a thread or two where people did cut off their prop.It might be easer to replace the shaft and bearings and seals.
Shrivel
Requires therapy.
- Location
- Acworth, GA
Believe me, antiseize doesn't help on impellers. I used it on my impeller when I changed out my stocker three years ago and I've pulled the pump 3 times to get mine off and haven't been able yet (using heat as well). I've also just ordered an Impros Hooker and had better be able to or I'm gonna cry.
I understand it's a function of pump design, but I hope some smart engineer goes back to the drawing board on that design real soon...
I understand it's a function of pump design, but I hope some smart engineer goes back to the drawing board on that design real soon...
- Location
- mobile alabama
yamaha uses backwards threads on the impeller shaft
i turn 1 off at least one a week... salt water@ that
ive even seen the housing swole up sp bad i had to leave the impeller in it and just let it unscrew too!
i turn 1 off at least one a week... salt water@ that
ive even seen the housing swole up sp bad i had to leave the impeller in it and just let it unscrew too!
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Flat Brapp
h2o
- Location
- Jacksonville florida
Ha yeah thank jesus for the X, i would have never known the prop was reversed threads back when i tried to pull off a stocker.
steveyz250fpilot
Banned
- Location
- Huntsville, Alabama
Do a search for the manual on the X. It actually has handy onformation like that in it. Download it and keep it for reference.
well I moved but it would only move a little then bind the shaft finally broke. Par for the course this week. Plasma cutter time. 45 min prop / bearing service just cost me big ................ vise 100.... .wrench 20 ......another wench 20 ......old skat 225..... shaft 238...... your wife telling you the Neighbours called to see if every thing was alright .....priceless.
- Location
- central florida
Aluminum props can corrode. SS props can gall the threads. You can take a slitting wheel and cut a 1/8" wide section out of the impeller (only takes 2 hours) longitudenally above the threaded area, then take a chisel and spread that gap open, it'll unscrew then. Never found heat to work in this case. Slight damage to the threaded area of the shaft from going just a little too deep with the slitting wheel is not a problem.
- Location
- So. IL
I couldn't get mine stainless prop off of my RN so I started heating and pulling. I finally got the oxy torch out and turned it purple to get it off. I had to cut the stock one off of the prop with a sawzall didn't want to do that again.
Aww common. When looking at the prop it's only logical that you would loosen it the opposite way that it spins. Otherwise the engine might unscrew it during riding...
Kawi's are normal...just an FYI. I guess the engine spins the opposite direction as a yamaha.
They turn the same direction, difference is the kawisakis' prop is attached to the pumpshaft where as the yamahas' is on the driveshaft. I think its better to use waterproof grease or pipe sealant on impeller threads. Antiseize is for hot areas, our problem is corrosion.
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