Super Jet Woes. Tech Help and a Beer Needed!

[Fathom]

I've tried the manual choking before but figured I'd give it another try. Nada. It's possible there's pooled fuel in the case now but when I had the reed cages out to inspect the reeds, there wasn't much at all. The reeds looked great and they all snapped closed when opened with a finger. I couldn't see any gaps and when I shot carb cleaner into the cage, they held fluid until depressed.

 

[sjetrider]

How did you rule out the stator? Did you OHM's test the pickup and the charging coil? You can have spark and still have a bad charge coil or pickup. You must OHM's test and wiggle wires all the way down to know for sure. I only say this because I had same issue and replaced the stator and it ended up bad as well (yep 2 bad stators in one build) OHM's test finally revealed that it was checking just under min required on charge coil.
61X stator should read like 340 to 380 OHM's I believe (mine was 320 and not working)
62T should be like 520 to 560 but double check thes figures
JUST A THOUGHT:biggthumpup:

So, after reassembly, I now have a completely rebuilt carb, new fuel filter and even changed the pulse line for the fun of it. I go to try and start and I still have the same symptom, it turns over and if I pump the primer to add fuel, it backfires.
I decided to rule out a bad stator and I still have no start.
I can't think of a component at this point that has not been changed out and I still can't get this sucker running. Any ideas?

 

[kx454]

stupid question but i have seen it done did you remember to put the key in the flywheel?

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

How did you verify spark?

was it fat and BLUE and consistant?

have you tried it with the spark plugs installed barely finger tight? like where they are basically loose, but in the holes?

 

[Fathom]

How did you rule out the stator? Did you OHM's test the pickup and the charging coil? You can have spark and still have a bad charge coil or pickup. You must OHM's test and wiggle wires all the way down to know for sure. I only say this because I had same issue and replaced the stator and it ended up bad as well (yep 2 bad stators in one build) OHM's test finally revealed that it was checking just under min required on charge coil.
61X stator should read like 340 to 380 OHM's I believe (mine was 320 and not working)
62T should be like 520 to 560 but double check thes figures
JUST A THOUGHT:biggthumpup:

I have not actually tested the stator, just swapped with what I hope was a good one. I guess I need to do some testing, stranger things have happened.

What's still odd to me is that it initially started and ran and then died. I had lost spark and a swap of the CDI brought the spark back but I have yet to get it started again. I appreciate the feedback.

Yes, the woodruff key was installed.

 

[Fathom]

How did you verify spark?

was it fat and BLUE and consistant?

have you tried it with the spark plugs installed barely finger tight? like where they are basically loose, but in the holes?

Spark was blue and consistent on both wires. I installed the plugs into the boots and then grounded them. I did not install the plugs loose in the holes. What are your thoughts there?

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

thinking that if the spark is weak, it might fire with slightly less compression ( loose plug)

if its fat and blue though, I doubt its a weak spark problem.

nothing to loose by trying it though.

are you SURE that the stator plate is somewhere close to the stock timing mark on the case?

Spark was blue and consistent on both wires. I installed the plugs into the boots and then grounded them. I did not install the plugs loose in the holes. What are your thoughts there?

 

[Fathom]

I'll give it a shot, I'm open for any ideas. The timing mark is dead on, tilted the motor off the mounts to be sure.

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

One other thought, are you sure there isnt a mouse nest, or other obstruction in the exhuast or water box somewhere?

maybe stick a wetdry vac hose into the exhuast, and listen thru a plug hole?
( in lieu of taking alot of stuff apart)

 

[sjetrider]

thinking that if the spark is weak, it might fire with slightly less compression ( loose plug)

if its fat and blue though, I doubt its a weak spark problem.

nothing to loose by trying it though.

are you SURE that the stator plate is somewhere close to the stock timing mark on the case?

This is a good IDEA, you can have consistant spark but not enough at high RPMS under a load.

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

sometimes im useful, but I always have beer.

:biggthumpup:

This is a good IDEA, you can have consistant spark but not enough at high RPMS under a load.

 

[Fathom]

Alright, I tried the plugs loose in the holes and nothing changed. The nest is a possibility. The ski was in storage for sometime as it was someones project. Won't hurt to pull the waterbox and blow through the long hose.

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

for testing, just pull one end of the short hose from pipe to waterbox and try to crank it.

WARNING, it will scare the Bejeebus out of you if it starts like that!

Alright, I tried the plugs loose in the holes and nothing changed. The nest is a possibility. The ski was in storage for sometime as it was someones project. Won't hurt to pull the waterbox and blow through the long hose.

 

[Fathom]

That's what I ended up doing. I hooked a vac to blow and had a clear passage through the exhaust. The flow was steady. I tried cranking it with no hose on the exhaust and it would not start. Maybe it is two bad stators.

For the fun of it, I put the old CDI back in and checked for spark and it is still gone so I know I had a bad CDI but the other two I am using have the same good steady blue sparks.

 

[Fathom]

Here's a new thought and need some feedback. The one time I had it started, I couldn't get it to stop so I changed the Start/Stop switch with a JSS refurbished one that I had never tested but assumed was good. Since then, it has not started. Is it possible that although the buttons work as they should that the switch is somehow faulty and keeping the ski from starting? I am not familiar with the circuitry in the switch to know for sure.

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

unhook the start/stop switch at the black./white, and red brown connectors.

the red brown wires when stuck together, engage the starter solenoid.

the white and black kill the engine thru the red button, and the tether ( by closing the circuit, grounding the ignition pulse signal I think)

turn the idle on the engine way down.

short the brown and red wires together with a set of needle nose, or paperclip or something down inside the connector, the end that goes to the elec box.

if you had a good consistant blue spark though, Im doubting its your stator or switch.

 

[Fathom]

Bypassed the switch and nothing changed.
I'm feeling another stator swap. The one I'll use THIS time will be a known good one from a running ski.

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

cool, let us know.

I still dont see how it could be faulty if you had good blue consistant spark, unless the pickup coil is sending the pulse at the wrong time.

But it still seems like it would do more than NOTHING...

dang, one of those demon, turn a man to the bottle type of boats huh?

ive got at least 2 of those.

:biggrin:

Bypassed the switch and nothing changed.
I'm feeling another stator swap. The one I'll use THIS time will be a known good one from a running ski.

 

[Fathom]

That's my thought too. How can the stator be bad with a good spark? However, with the input above and trying everything else, what can I do? So far, at least I learned my carb rebuilding skills are in tact.

I need to take a break from it long enough to buy more beer.

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

one of THE single most important steps in effective trouble shooting.

beer break.