Starting issue

[Vumad]

My superjet is running great, but it it stops running, it won't start again until it has sat for a few minutes, then it starts right up. It will crank the whole time but won't start until it has sat.

Tried a few simple things on the beach. Carbs are spotless both sides. New plugs. Made sure primer was working but a few squirts doesn't help. It's not water ingestion because even hitting the stop button bone after the bilge has stopped pumping causes it. Fuel filter, carbs etc were done in October. Swapped in the fresh spare battery I brought. All original electronics, wondering if my coil is failing. Haven't put dielectric grease on my s/s plugs or checked my tank valve but will in the morning.

Any suggestions for simple fixes I'm over looking? I've just been making sure I keep it running when I fall but it's very annoying when it shuts off. 1 or 2 more rides before I head out so not going to get crazy taking it apart.

 

[kennyfree]

May be a loose stator. Take your fly wheel cover off and check for any issues.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

[Tyler Zane]

I had an issue like this that ended up being the stator. When it was cool, it would start fine but when hot it lost spark.

 

[Vumad]

Okay, thanks. Not going to check that on the beach but it'll be the first thing I check when I get home.

 

[Pro-pulsion]

Although it stays running until you shut it down, I would still be inclined to check your coil. It is super easy, just need a multimeter and test the secondary winding. One test probe in each boot and see how it reads. If you have the stock boots then you should get a good reading as they do not have built in resistors, some boots do have them built in, when they start to die they will act funny that way. I don't think resistor caps are going to be common on our skis though but just some food for thought. If your resistance tests show anything above or below spec then it could be coil time. One possible option too is if the last 1/4" of the high tension lead is broken or breaking down creating the issue. If you test high resistance values, you can snip off 1/4" from the leads and reattach. Kawi was known for this on the 650sx as a common problem and I have read about it with the SJ's as well here and there. Coils are weird, they can work perfectly fine cold and break down as they get hot, which could be going on with your primary winding, or they can be a problem cold and improve as they heat up. The old OMC 7.5hp outboards were famous for that. Checking your primary winding would require removal of the e-box and diving inside...you can do it relatively easily but it is just not fun to do while on the beach. If you did decide to test on the beach though, you can also test your stator right there from inside the e-box and eliminate all tests in one foul swoop. Finally if all testing passes, doing a CDI swap to test would be the next place to look to. Again, this can be done while you test everything from the e-box if you decide to go there. It is a lot of work to take the e-box apart multiple times so if you have to do it, do as much as you can while you're in there and save yourself the hassle of going back in there again

 

[Vortex]

I would just throw 80 bucks or so at a new OEM coil first. It's worth replacing if it's an older ski. then do your stator checks with ebox open then if that checks out good swap the CDI out if the problem persists

I have had an ATP epic act like that and it did turn out to be the CDI at fault. Had it professionally tested, said that timing was erratic which would partially explain the no re start if it's overly advancing the timing or erraticly firing. Starts cold and runs great for 10 mins, shut it off and it would not re fire for the rest of the day. Next day it will start and repeat symptoms

My experience with bad coils is that it will start and run without much trouble and sound OK on the trailer thrn you put it in water and it struggles under load when revved. Just my 2 cents

Long story short I would not hesitate to put a new oem coil, plugs, and enhancer in at the same time once the stator checks out

 

[Vumad]

Although it stays running until you shut it down,

Not anymore. Shut off 4 times while riding today like I pulled the lanyard.

going to be going through the electronics

 

[chadman154]

I'd say stator. Had identical issue on my fx1 till I changed stator

 

[augustaf]

You might consider unplugging the plug with the black and the white wire near the ebox. I've had a handle bar switch cause an issue just like the op's.

 

[Quinc]

Had this same issue and my cdi and stator where bad.. If you are in salt water I would check the plug wires first.

 

[scotts2t]

I had and issue like this, ended up being tank valve. Would run until it vacuumed itself out of fuel. Let it sit for a bit, suctioned enough air to get fuel again then same thing happened over and over.

 

[badvinny]

+2 on the handlebar switch! Take it apart and clean the terminals inside, reassemble with waterproof grease, my FX1 would require this every few years because of a small crack in the rubber. It never needed replacing, just cleaning off the light colored rust on the brass contacts inside. It was like you said " just like pulling the tether off!"