Super Jet Speedwerx Pipe Question
- Thread starter Pro-pulsion
- Start date
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
No he was hoping I could call him I just haven't had the chance to yet, Octane did though. He mentioned using it there so I will be doing that. Any suggestions as to how far open the fcv should be? Half way between each stop or any number of turns from a certain direction? I am at work right now milling up some brackets and sleeving the manifold. It was so sloppy when I put the pipe into it that I could see why alignment would be an issue. Not anymore, that thing is dead on now and both flanges mate square to each other. It took a .0.030" sleeve to clean up the play in there, plus the mani slips on so nice and smooth now. I plugged the water inlet on the mani as well so there is no more exhaust stream interruption by 5/16" straight flow of hyrdogen-o-two. I am also going to hog out my jets according to Octane's recommendations as well as make up a mounting bracket for a bilge and dual cool this unit. I know I will be using the siphon bilge through hull but what about tapping the pump...is there a location on the siphon side or does it have to be done on the opposite side? I will pop up some pics of the machining work later tonight when I get a chance.
- Location
- amarillo ,tx
Interesting is he completly out of the pipe makeing buissness
Sounds good, glad you are diggin in to make it work. Getting the flanges and coupling right make a huge difference in o-ring maintenance.
There is a boss on the stator section of the pump you tap for the second cooling line. It's on the bilge side.
I used 5200 to secure my bilge strainer to the bottom if the hull. It's held for a couple years now. If you use a bracket, you might want to put a small piece of turf or rubber on the btm of the strainer. I've cracked a few from the strainer smacking the bottom of the hull (at least this is my theory).
There is a boss on the stator section of the pump you tap for the second cooling line. It's on the bilge side.
I used 5200 to secure my bilge strainer to the bottom if the hull. It's held for a couple years now. If you use a bracket, you might want to put a small piece of turf or rubber on the btm of the strainer. I've cracked a few from the strainer smacking the bottom of the hull (at least this is my theory).
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
I don't think John is out of it no, he responded to my e-mail sent to Speedwerx unless they forwarded it to him. I figured out a nifty and quick way to mount my little electronic bilge...when I removed he siphon bracket I used a tie strap that has a little hole made in it for wall mounting. Wrapped the pump and gave the strap a good bite down, it seems to be solid. We shall see for how long but with the little drive cover putting some additional pressure on top of it I think it should be alright.
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
So I did everything...EVERYTHING! mentioned lol. All I can say is I was wrong. I admit it, I was totally not prepared to do what was needed to build around the pipe but I listened to what everyone was saying and now all I can say is, thank you to everyone for the positive replies, suggestions and support. Special thanks go to Octane, Wanderer, and Just Joe. You guys really stayed with me and helped out a lot. My first ride with it was basically....alright. Now it is alright...what did you guys do to my ski?! The power is just plain out sick! I spent 13 hours doing everything I could yesterday, and 5 more hours today with still a few little things to finish up. I did the following...
-tapped the pump and set-up dual cooling, one for the pipe and one for the head
-installed a Rule 500gph automatic bilge pump
-installed a second water bypass for the head and used the original for the pipe
-changed the cooling lines to Octane's recommendations
-pulled the carbs, cleaned them thoroughly, bored the jets to 140 main and 80 pilot with stock needle and seats and springs, installed new carb kits
-turned a 0.030" sleeve for the manifold to tighten up the pipe fitment
...all that plus running around to get little things here and there added up to a full 18 hours of modding and it was worth it. I still need to fab up a bracket for the head though. The little one I was using broke while out today. As always, there is going to be one little tiny thing overlooked. While I was out I noticed the bypass fitting stopped spraying water toward the end of the ride. After a few minutes the bilge pump kicked in but I noticed the water coming out was nice and warm so I knew the hose on the head blew off. I found a beach and stopped in, check and sure enough. I apparently forgot to put a clamp on that hose lol. Earlier I was wondering what happened to my little bunch of yellow zip ties, well I found them. They just happened to fall into the hull and wouldn't you know it, just when I needed them they turned up =) I slid a pair of them onto the bypass and it worked well. I did notice one thing though, it seemed to be at times a little rough and not able to clear out to hit the clean powerband. It was either rough sort of like it was loading up, or it was rough sort of like it was hitting the rev limitter. It seemed to be either/or at various times. Other times it was right on the money. It also seemed that the same condition occurred when I had to switch over to reserve until the fuel filled the lines. My thoughts were the screw settings are off. Right now they are set to 1 1/16 on the low and 1 1/2 on the high, does this sound a little too rich? I can dial in the lows easily enough, I only need to tune one and use a sync meter to adjust the other to match. But the highs might be a bit more tricky for me. Suggestions?
-tapped the pump and set-up dual cooling, one for the pipe and one for the head
-installed a Rule 500gph automatic bilge pump
-installed a second water bypass for the head and used the original for the pipe
-changed the cooling lines to Octane's recommendations
-pulled the carbs, cleaned them thoroughly, bored the jets to 140 main and 80 pilot with stock needle and seats and springs, installed new carb kits
-turned a 0.030" sleeve for the manifold to tighten up the pipe fitment
...all that plus running around to get little things here and there added up to a full 18 hours of modding and it was worth it. I still need to fab up a bracket for the head though. The little one I was using broke while out today. As always, there is going to be one little tiny thing overlooked. While I was out I noticed the bypass fitting stopped spraying water toward the end of the ride. After a few minutes the bilge pump kicked in but I noticed the water coming out was nice and warm so I knew the hose on the head blew off. I found a beach and stopped in, check and sure enough. I apparently forgot to put a clamp on that hose lol. Earlier I was wondering what happened to my little bunch of yellow zip ties, well I found them. They just happened to fall into the hull and wouldn't you know it, just when I needed them they turned up =) I slid a pair of them onto the bypass and it worked well. I did notice one thing though, it seemed to be at times a little rough and not able to clear out to hit the clean powerband. It was either rough sort of like it was loading up, or it was rough sort of like it was hitting the rev limitter. It seemed to be either/or at various times. Other times it was right on the money. It also seemed that the same condition occurred when I had to switch over to reserve until the fuel filled the lines. My thoughts were the screw settings are off. Right now they are set to 1 1/16 on the low and 1 1/2 on the high, does this sound a little too rich? I can dial in the lows easily enough, I only need to tune one and use a sync meter to adjust the other to match. But the highs might be a bit more tricky for me. Suggestions?
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- Location
- Cruising Around
Glad it worked out for ya. Have fun
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- Location
- Ontario, Canada
Plug failure. I pulled the plugs, tossed in a new pair and all the symptoms are gone. As for the power, love it! It is exactly where I wanted it, arm ripping explosive bottom end and still hits crazy top speeds...even with a Hooker 9/15! I have noticed that since I installed the higher compression ADA head kit I have been going through plugs like candy. Since June I am on set number 3. Before the head change I never changed plugs once. It could just be coincidence and maybe the high tension leads need to be trimmed like wanderer mentioned to me though. As far as I know they have never been trimmed. I will keep feeding it plugs though to get me through the next 4 weeks, by that time the water temps around here are cool enough that I start prepping for storage.
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
July 2015 update on this pipe:
I thought this update is needed in support of this pipe. First a little history though. When I bought my ski, being my first time on a SuperJet I was impressed. It was stock, it seemed to run well but needed attention. I did everything I could afford to do and it seemed to be very nice for power and ride quality. Then I did a little more when I could afford it and eventually I bought this pipe. So long story short, it seemed I could not get a huge improvement out of it. I became frustrated with the money spent vs. the little gains I was seeing.
I posted this thread as I was almost to the point of selling it. I followed everything I was recommended to do and had good results. But still always found that I seemed to be hitting my rev limiter. I figured this was just due to the pipe allowing the engine to rev higher and never really thought much more of it.
At the end of last season again I ran into rev limiter issues. I tested the coil, it was a write off so it was replaced. All was well until the issue came back, I thought cavitation. The pump seal was pretty well spent too so that was replaced, all seemed well again.
This year, it came back but became much worse. I cleaned and calibrated my carbs, 3 times...no change. I noticed when revving it I would get a flame front coming back up my intake and into the bottom of the carbs. So I figured at this point it was electrical /timing related. I tested my stator, it was well within specs. I finally decided to change out my CDI. A test run on the trailer showed no fire coming up the intake, now it was time to really test it. A trip to the lake and all I can say is unbelievable. The old CDI has been holding me back all this time. This pipe produces so much power that until I get used to it, I feel like I have no business being on such a monster. I have easily boosted my power by huge margins, well more than I ever thought my ski could produce. Anyone considering buying a Speedwerx pipe should just do it. When you can launch your ski out of the water from idle, you know there is a ton of power. My many thanks and appreciation goes out to everyone that stayed with me on this one
I thought this update is needed in support of this pipe. First a little history though. When I bought my ski, being my first time on a SuperJet I was impressed. It was stock, it seemed to run well but needed attention. I did everything I could afford to do and it seemed to be very nice for power and ride quality. Then I did a little more when I could afford it and eventually I bought this pipe. So long story short, it seemed I could not get a huge improvement out of it. I became frustrated with the money spent vs. the little gains I was seeing.
I posted this thread as I was almost to the point of selling it. I followed everything I was recommended to do and had good results. But still always found that I seemed to be hitting my rev limiter. I figured this was just due to the pipe allowing the engine to rev higher and never really thought much more of it.
At the end of last season again I ran into rev limiter issues. I tested the coil, it was a write off so it was replaced. All was well until the issue came back, I thought cavitation. The pump seal was pretty well spent too so that was replaced, all seemed well again.
This year, it came back but became much worse. I cleaned and calibrated my carbs, 3 times...no change. I noticed when revving it I would get a flame front coming back up my intake and into the bottom of the carbs. So I figured at this point it was electrical /timing related. I tested my stator, it was well within specs. I finally decided to change out my CDI. A test run on the trailer showed no fire coming up the intake, now it was time to really test it. A trip to the lake and all I can say is unbelievable. The old CDI has been holding me back all this time. This pipe produces so much power that until I get used to it, I feel like I have no business being on such a monster. I have easily boosted my power by huge margins, well more than I ever thought my ski could produce. Anyone considering buying a Speedwerx pipe should just do it. When you can launch your ski out of the water from idle, you know there is a ton of power. My many thanks and appreciation goes out to everyone that stayed with me on this one
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