Custom/Hybrid ROK rebuild

So I picked up 2008sx-r's ROK and nedless to say I have some work ahead of me. Now let me first say that I purchased a ski knowing I would be doing some work to it. Also it was a straight up transaction

I got it home Yesterday around 5 oclock. And buy 11 it was scattered in my garage. It was a piece of coupler that gave me the flag to tear it down completely. I have have since fixed many issues that would affect reliability and function.

I am waiting for my drill battery to recharge so I will start with what the ski is

69 lb carbon fiber ROK. Was delivered to J about 6 months ago
FP wet pipe
2008sxr internals
RRP pole with bearing steering and riser bars
Blows ion throttle and pole bolt
WDK pole bracket and hood latches
ADA girdled head yielding 175 compression
An aluminum water box, said to be TDR
Blowsion Air Forced air filters
Scoop intake grate


Plans. Fix all it's issues and install my groupk big bore in it
 
I pulled the motor to find several issues. Once gutted I was able to fix all the issues properly, or at least, to best of my ability. The RRP pole felt loose and was making noise if I torqed on it. I pulled it apart to find the tubes were only engaged about an inch into both caps. I reassembled it where I could still see the tubes in the sight holes. Torques it down and it is now solid. It's also 5 inches shorter than before. I don't know if I'll like the pole that short on this hull but we will give it a go.
Also the bearing turn plate felt very stiff. I adjusted the pivot bolt and it was to tight. Problem solved.
In the process of adjusting the pole tubes I found the pivot bolt was way to tight. After loosening it upmi found the pole is sloppy on the blowsion pivot bolt and side to side in the WDK pole mount. Some shims should take care of the side to side and I'll look into bushings to take up the clearance on the bolt
 
I found a hole in the hull where the water box rubbed through.... Sanded out the damage and contaminates ( the hole was repaired with rtv)
Some epoxy resin and fiberglass (I don't have any carbon) did the trick and I put three layers of 6 and 8 oz mat over the cut glass I used to fill the void. The hole was about the size of a dime after I sanded it out. I fixed a couple dings on the bottom edge of the front rocker while I was at it. I am going to try to position the water box better or get one that fits better so this dose not happen again
I still can't believe how light this thing is. Or how thin. It seems like there is hardly any thickness to it but that's the point of using carbon
 
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I'm work'n on it.

The trailer will be done today and after my workout I'll be grinding the engine bed plate for clearance against the hull. Was thinking about putting my groupk lightened flywheel on it while it's out. Then it's time to put it all back together and build my backing plates for the pole limit and hood strap eyelets.

I'm not sure straps are necessary with this hood latch system but I would hate to lose this hood
 

steve-uk

Manners cost nothing
Location
Barrie - ontario
this thread means nothing without pics!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

come on... post up what your telling us your doing.. you know most of us are retards and cant read ... we just look at the pictures!

welcome to the rok club!
 

sjetrider

615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
run a ltach and a strap. Do not run without the rear latch on this hood system bro.

Is the group K a kawi motor.
I was hoping to here how this boat felt with a Kawi drive train.
I have 2 of these carbon infused hulls. Just FYI, he had this posted as prepreg, it is not preprgeg it is carbon infused.
 

chriselmore_1

high on resin
Location
san jose ca
I run just the pin latch and ratchet strap and I've never had my good move at all. Toons of over rotated rolls pancakes like you wouldn't believe on 15 20 foot flips and three good is fine.not site about the carbon hulls but my sglass/chop rok is bullet proof.I have neat the crap out of this boat and it doesn't have the slightest stress crack or anything anywhere...
 

steve-uk

Manners cost nothing
Location
Barrie - ontario
I run just the pin latch and ratchet strap and I've never had my good move at all. Toons of over rotated rolls pancakes like you wouldn't believe on 15 20 foot flips and three good is fine.not site about the carbon hulls but my sglass/chop rok is bullet proof.I have neat the crap out of this boat and it doesn't have the slightest stress crack or anything anywhere...

bro you need a new keyboard......
 
I'm working on pics as we speak. I will post them when I get done with the ski. I want it done before I leave for tona on we'd am.

Hood straps are in the works.

@sjetrider, thanks, I'll look at the receipt for the hull and update the post. I do know its light as fuuuge

I just finished clearancing the engine bed plate and ready to reinstall the engine.
I was going to put my groupk lightened fw on but I dont have a base gasket so that will have to wait

Pics soon, back to work
 
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sjetrider

615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
so its just a group K flywheel for the Kawi motor, I mistook that thinking you were installing a groupK motor. So will still be a Kawi setup.
Would love to check it out in Daytona, you are more than welcome to come check mine out.
 
Its pretty nice for how much stuff was not right and i get the feeling it got beat on a little more than it deserved. The pic of the chunk of coupler was what set of this full tear down and I'm glad I did or the ski would have pissed me off in Daytona. I found it sitting on top of the exhaust pipe at the bulkhead when I was looking the ski over in my garage at about 6 sat night.

The pic of the engine bay is after I cleaned the motor mount surfaces off with a sanding block (top & bottom) and I did the same to the mount pads in the hull to get a little better contact between the mount and hull.

The last pic I just found about 10 minutes ago and its the hood top delaminating from the inner liner. ANY advise on what to use to repair that would be greatly appreciated.
 

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