Octane Repairing Octane Engine Mounts

[VXSXH20]

Hey Guys, Have been reading over and over on here as well as other sources. I have a 02' octane and the mounts finally dettached from the green bonding glue. It appears that the previous owner had the pipe side mount reglassed with a single layer of woven glass. however it has pulled about 90% out and barely-semi-attached. And the carb side just completely came right out. (all this was discovered after i pulled the engine/tank/elecs just to verify)

-Heres the question. "can I rough up the aluminum brackets on the bottom side with a course abrasive as well as rough up the remaining green glue and RE-EPOXY back onto it? ( i was going to dremel some grooves into the old epoxy to help adhesion) this way the drivetrain is still in alignment as it was? this was my approach -FOLLOWED BY 2 LAYERS of woven glass? Im not a glass expert nor do i claim to be, but these seems to be pretty straight forward.. please advise?? Thanks

 

[speedysprocket]

Where in VA are you? I reenforced my Octane in the fall, to include 2 layers of 17oz bias over the mount plates. Mine were still attached to the hull, so I left them in and glassed over. I wouldn't peel up the old stuff. Just some epoxy on the bottom, glass over the top.

 

[VXSXH20]

Where in VA are you? I reenforced my Octane in the fall, to include 2 layers of 17oz bias over the mount plates. Mine were still attached to the hull, so I left them in and glassed over. I wouldn't peel up the old stuff. Just some epoxy on the bottom, glass over the top.

Im in NOVA, Ride Potomac and Or Lake Anna, been to Lake Norman as well. As for the mount bases, I didn't really peel or pry anything up, They have been shot for a lil while it appears, I think the exhaust/coupler and so forth were really the only things keeping the motor somewhat stationary. I was planning on cutting away the mediocre single layer repair on the one side and glassing all the way accross the hull including the mounts? is that overkill? only down side i wont be able to isolate another mount repair down the road without taking pretty much all of it up.. is it a good idea to add a layer or 2 under the engine anyway? the hull seems pretty solid. its a flat water lake/river boat, I belive its seen surf in the past. there are indications leading me to belive so. Thanks -JW

 

[speedysprocket]

Yeah, just go all the way across the bottom. My hull got so thin from beaching and such that water was seeping through the fiberglass...

 

[Weber guy]

Call me at 360 981-1157 and I will help you.

 

[octane83]

I had to do mine. I used 36 grit to scuff the aluminum and epoxy to insure the new epoxy would stick good. I took a belt sander and put groves in the epoxy that was there so that i could get more new epoxy under the aluminum. I then fiber glassed over the whole aluminum peice. They should not come loose anymore. Just make sure if you fiber glass that you scuff the old fiber glass up to.

 

[Fro Diesel]

Recently re-reinforced an Fx1 that had not been properly sanded or even roughed before and I pull it out in sheetz.

sent from Fro Diesel using tapatalk.

 

[785 lugs]

call that weber guy he's pretty sharp LOL

 

[VXSXH20]

call that weber guy he's pretty sharp LOL

Thanks guys, I will give it a try I have not yet prepped the areas to start. What is a good epoxy? I was looking into WEST SYSTEM's Six-Ten and there 105 series resin. What is a good fiberglass mat material? I know that resin saturation is key but again i am somewhat green when it comes to glass and well this is my octane!

 

[VXSXH20]

got the engine and such pulled. about to start prep for repair. still waiting to get all the materials..

 

[VXSXH20]

figured I'd update the old post in case it could help someone out. After clean up and removal of the mounting plates, Grooves were cut/dug into the remaining original glue. the bottoms of the aluminum were scuffed up with whizz wheel for good adhesion for the new epoxy glue (5200). Sand bags were placed onto the mounting plates and let dry, then the surrounding edges of the aluminum plates were built up using chopped glass mixed with epoxy resin (west sys 205) this made for a smooth transition for the glass material go up and over the plates. followed by 3 layers of some nice heavy bi-woven glass material. i forget what ounce, I also put resin all around the stainless screws and protruding holes for the Tubbies and capped them off. Came out pretty good and i learned alot along the way. It is back together now and solid as a rock.