Reinforcing with carbon

[beachedflunkey]

I'm looking for suggestions on reinforcing a moderate flatwater rider's roundnose possibly using carbon fiber. Will one layer of 3k 2x2 twill or even 1x1 cloth throughout typically suffice? And three layers at the pole mount base? Thanks for the help,
mark

 

[Matt_E]

FWIW, I did my hull with 3 layers - one layer of carbon-kevlar, one layer of carbon, and another layer of carbon kevlar. Absolutely no complaints here.
However, the next hull will get glass. You're not saving significant amounts of weight, and it's a bit harder to work with and loads more expensive.

 

[Mark44]

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I'm looking for suggestions on reinforcing a moderate flatwater rider's roundnose possibly using carbon fiber. Will one layer of 3k 2x2 twill or even 1x1 cloth throughout typically suffice? And three layers at the pole mount base? Thanks for the help,
mark

Why would you want to use carbon? Have extra cash to spend or just looking for bling bling. Other than that I see no reasons to use carbon I would use glass much more flexible and allot less cost. :biggthumpup:
IMO
Mark44

 

[CG Racing]

Carbon is by far the best to use. The next one I do will have a strip 3" wide over the bond rail, 5" over that and 2 full sheets from top to botttom including under the hoodseal lip. Straight carbon is sooooo easy to make lay flat and uniform, and if you use a good epoxy, you'll never have a problem. Remember, use as little resin as possible when working with carbon. It is supposed to look almost dry when finished. You will also save some $$ in resin as you will use half as much.

 

[Matt_E]

That's very true. My carbon kevlar stuff looks dry and definetely has texture to it.

 

[Idok]

what the consensus on carbon not being as good to reinforce with if you cant vacuum bag it?

I have heard and read that resin will not just soak into CF, it has to be vacuum sealed...


i just did my FX, i used 1 layer of 17oz biax and 1 layer of C/K weave......i did the c/k just for bling, wasnt expecting much out of it as far as structural integrity...I mean, it'll help.....


but..........................................

 

[jetskiking]

I would use carbon kevlar over glass. It isnt that the carbon itself is so much lighter but like CG Racing said it takes less resin which is where you save the weight. I made identical handhold buckets with glass and carbon. You could definetly tell the carbon ones were lighter even on something that small.

P.S. good luck finding carbon:banghead:

 

[Matt_E]

Ebay.

 

[beachedflunkey]

Cool thanks for the input. I think maybe a small layer over the bond line + a full layer like CG mentioned should do the trick for this rider. Good point on the resin savings :cool2:. So when you say "straight carbon" you mean 1x1 cloth - not that nasty blingy twill crap right?

 

[jetskiking]

Cool thanks for the input. I think maybe a small layer over the bond line + a full layer like CG mentioned should do the trick for this rider. Good point on the resin savings :cool2:. So when you say "straight carbon" you mean 1x1 cloth - not that nasty blingy twill crap right?

I think the plain weave looks cooler than the twill anyway

 

[CG Racing]

Cool thanks for the input. I think maybe a small layer over the bond line + a full layer like CG mentioned should do the trick for this rider. Good point on the resin savings :cool2:. So when you say "straight carbon" you mean 1x1 cloth - not that nasty blingy twill crap right?

What I meant was not carbon Kevelar, just carbon

 

[jetskier79]

Remember, use as little resin as possible when working with carbon.

Isn't that how you are supposed to lay up ALL glass? Use only the amount of resin that is needed for total saturation. Anything past that only makes it more brittle right?

And while we are on the subject....can someone explain to me why no one ever uses matte? Getting my info from car fiberglass builders, I've been told that matte gives strength while cloth gives flexibility.

 

[Matt_E]

I've used a combo of both. I got it off Ebay - it was cloth on one side and heavy mat on the other.

Holds a ********load of resin, though.

 

[meatball]

so with matte and cloth, what would be the best combo of what weight, and where to reinforce, for an SJ that is used mostly in flatwater, and occasionally surf?

 

[beachedflunkey]

Using glass on a surf boat, I'd use two layers of 17oz biax mat/cloth on sides/lip, one optional layer of mat to grind back down smooth, three-four layers biax under pole mount, one layer on bottom, two in the rear 18" (behind footwells), one in the tray, and an optional amount through the rest of the rear half. Then the hood and pole. You could surely get by with less on a flatwater boat.

This'll be my first big carbon job and yes the owner has money to spend :cool2: .

 

[sflsurfrider]

carbon and carbon kevlar are for the bling AFTER you reinforce with biaxial mat.

the difference in weight is minimal. stop eating cheeseburgers and large fries if youre thinking that a little extra resin is killing your game.

 

[Matt_E]

Or get a Lamey.:clown:

 

[sflsurfrider]

:haha:

 

[Freestyleriverrat]

carbon and carbon kevlar are for the bling AFTER you reinforce with biaxial mat.

the difference in weight is minimal. stop eating cheeseburgers and large fries if youre thinking that a little extra resin is killing your game.

Biaxial is the way to go, carbon is just for looks

 

[Mark44]

Biaxial is the way to go, carbon is just for looks

Word what he said. Save yor money for engine mods and go glass:biggthumpup:

Mark44