Paint reccomendations and prep for an old SN SJ650 Superjet

I'm going to be painting a SN SJ650 superject hull. This thing was rattlecan sprayed black by a previous owner. Planning to strip it as well as I can, fix up any fiberglass issues, fill any gouges with thickened epoxy fairing and sand to prep.

Was planning on a high build priner to smooth any imperfections, 2k automotive paint and then a gloss clear coat finsihing off with decals.
Does this seem like the best way to go?
This hull is pretty rough, loads of holes and patches already and a cracked handlepole, so definetly not going for absolute perfection, just prettied up, water ready and probably luminous pink for decent visibility when I'm inevitably floating low in the water broken down in the middle of the lake.

Thanks.
 

WFO Speedracer

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Location
Alabama
I would say Kirker that is till you said luminous pink so that's out Shopline PPG should have you covered though.
 
I've got 2 to paint up eventually. This one will end up a girlfriend ski so is the guiniepig, I'm going luminous orange ane teal for the 2nd one I think. :p
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
Here is my advice , take it for what it's worth , don't strip it with stripper , sand it all off with at least 80 grit sandpaper, if it's not a flat surface hand sand it otherwise you will get the hull all out of whack and wreck the chines , do your repairs as you stated with epoxy and fairing compound then apply 2k Urethane primer over everything , I am not a big believer in epoxy primer, to me it's an unnecessary step and an a additional expense , if it's sanded down to the bare hull there is nothing that will bleed through and need to be sealed with epoxy primer , then sand it to 400 grit, if it still has sanding scratches prime it again and sand it again , you can be sure of this by spraying it all over with a cheap black primer or you can also buy guide coat in a can from places like Eastwood or probably even Amazon , this will show all the sanding scratches as well as the high and the low spots , doing it this way gives the paint something the stock paint never had , tooth so the paint will now actually stick to the hull and it won't peel off like the stock paint did.
 
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Location
Wisconsin
My advice is to take caution sanding into the top deck because once you breach the old paint/gelcoat/or whatever it is (I forget), you start grinding into the SMC, and you will get low spots and waviness in a hurry. For paint selection, I've used automotive single stage paint from NAPA a couple times and its worked pretty well.
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
My advice is to take caution sanding into the top deck because once you breach the old paint/gelcoat/or whatever it is (I forget), you start grinding into the SMC, and you will get low spots and waviness in a hurry. For paint selection, I've used automotive single stage paint from NAPA a couple times and its worked pretty well.
You can't get in too much trouble sanding by hand , especially if you use a sanding block to hold the sandpaper, sanding with a DA is where you can severely screw something up if you don't hold it flat or if the surface you are sanding isn't flat , as you state the learning curve on that can be really steep.

There is also a lot of info on this thread and I will be adding more shortly : https://www.x-h2o.com/threads/paint-how-to-thread.205359/
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
Omni works ok as does Shopline , but read below for the real skinny on them , what most people don't know about PPG is they are constantly changing to new paint technology , at the same time they don't throw out the old paint tech , it just becomes a lower line of product , they may thin it a bit and lower the price , that is the case with both Omni and Shopline .

Omni is close to the old Deltron formulation of years ago , it is a bit thinner and it will take more coats to cover than Deltron would have , Deltron was PPG's top of the line Urethane basically made to compete with Dupont Imron.

I believe the Shopline is really even thinner than the Omni , what does that to you mean in the real world , it's harder to shoot , it will take more coats to cover and it gives you a lot more room for errors and a lot more opportunity to create runs .

I have shot Nason a few times before and it sprayed pretty well, you can no longer get it here so It is not worth me trying to track down a dealer for it , what little I used it turned out really nice.

I have shot Dynacote a few times and been very impressed with it , it is made by Sikkens which is one of the top auto paint producers in the world , I still use Dynacote urethane primer on most everything that I paint now , really good stuff.

If you have never shot paint before I would go with something like TCP Global , that is my suggestion here ,of course do as you wish. They have both a hot pink and a Magenta .

Kirker would have been a good option but you won't find pink paint in their color line at all , Eastwood paint is nothing but rebranded Kirker and the paint cheaper from Kirker .

A few other things to mention ,if you are a first timer do yourself a huge favor and go with a solid color paint , metallics are nice , flashy and they look great on low riders and bass boats , they are also way harder to paint because the metallics in the paint want to fall out of suspension and runs typically cannot be sanded out, if you run metallic , you get to sand it down and reshoot it, if you run a solid color paint you can usually sand the runs out, buff it and it will be just like Servicemaster, like it never even happened.
 
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smoofers

Rockin' the SQUARE!!!!
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Location
Granbury, TX
@WFO Speedracer have you had any experience with the Total Boat or Alexseal top side coatings? They've been hyped all over youtube to the point I'm considering trying one of them. Very curious if you've tried any.
 
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