Other New West system product

[WFO Speedracer]

What you are looking at is a very versatile new product from West System,it comes with a mixing tube and fits in a std caulking gun,this eliminates having to buy an expensive single application gun.At a price of $20.50 per tube I know what my next hull is going to be put together with,this beats everything else out there price wise hands down and its West System folks so you know its good.
.
http://gougeonbrothers.com/Six10/

 

[madscientist]

nice find terry

 

[SuperJETT]

Looks good. I'm thinking about it for my top deck assembly, but probably still going to do resin/filler mixed up and put into empty caulk gun tubes---cheaper, just takes a little time to mix it up instead of it being ready to go.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

What this is is 105 resin and hardener premixed with 406 colloidal silica in a tube,it sets out a nice bead but it is specially formulated to be workable,what that means to you is you can wet out cloth with it or if you put together the top and bottom of your hull it will thin out some and spread out creating a better bond.

Then after it is clamped together and cured you flip the boat upside down run a bead all the way around calm the seam and call it done,just hope that you never have the need to pull it back apart the fiberglass would separate before this would separate from thew hull.

 

[Motorheads5]

The six 10 system has been around for about 4-month's it is excellent stuff. I think it is about 7% elongation which is more than the 150 I think the 105 is 4%.
A couple of year's ago I was told that on smc you want to use the g-flex because it has the same strength as 105 but it's elongation is 32% very durable. It handles the 2/3rd. rotation barrel roll's real well lol

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Looks good. I'm thinking about it for my top deck assembly, but probably still going to do resin/filler mixed up and put into empty caulk gun tubes---cheaper, just takes a little time to mix it up instead of it being ready to go.

I would be really leery of doing it that way ,to mix up large quantities of epoxy cabosil and have any working time you will have to use a very slow or tropical hardener.You are talking about mixing a very large quantity of very dense adhesive here,then getting it into the tubes and dispensing it,what happens is you get small sections in it where hot spots form and kick off ,this usually is not a problem but if that happens when putting the hull halves back together you will get hardened sections causing gaps in the glued surfaces.

I have done the way you are talking about before ,total PITA,I would think at the most two tubes of this would do the trick on a top deck conversion,this is one those steps where you really don't want to cheap out and maybe not get a proper bond.The working pot life on this product is 42 minutes,plenty of time to dispense it ,clamp it and get everything just perfect,no hassle ,no guesswork,for me thats worth quite a lot.

I am offering you same very sage advice from someone who works with these materials on a regular basis,do with it what you will .The last time I glued a hull together I used a fiberfilled epoxy I found on Ebay,it was already in a very heavy ,sag free state when mixed and was used to glue satellites together .

I loaded it into cardboard tubes and applied it then flipped the hull over and ran a bead down the seam,that product had a seven day cure time and was one of the strongest epoxy glues know to exist at that time.I also used the same product to fill the transom on my 1961 runabout boat.I dug all the old wood out with a chainsaw and filled the cavity with the epoxy,you can literally take a hammer to it and it will not phase it.

 

[SuperJETT]

I have slow hardener, and working in a cool basement, pot life down there is like an hour+ with this stuff. Also, a mixer on a drill does wonders.

Freestylegeek did it this way and had zero problems.

I would be really leery of doing it that way ,to mix up large quantities of epoxy cabosil and have any working time you will have to use a very slow or tropical hardener.You are talking about mixing a very large quantity of very dense adhesive here,then getting it into the tubes and dispensing it,what happens is you get small sections in it where hot spots form and kick off ,this usually is not a problem but if that happens when putting the hull halves back together you will get hardened sections causing gaps in the glued surfaces.

I have done the way you are talking about before ,total PITA,I would think at the most two tubes of this would do the trick on a top deck conversion,this is one those steps where you really don't want to cheap out and maybe not get a proper bond.The working pot life on this product is 42 minutes,plenty of time to dispense it ,clamp it and get everything just perfect,no hassle ,no guesswork,for me thats worth quite a lot.

I am offering you same very sage advice from someone who works with these materials on a regular basis,do with it what you will .The last time I glued a hull together I used a fiberfilled epoxy I found on Ebay,it was already in a very heavy ,sag free state when mixed and was used to glue satellites together .

I loaded it into cardboard tubes and applied it then flipped the hull over and ran a bead down the seam,that product had a seven day cure time and was one of the strongest epoxy glues know to exist at that time.I also used the same product to fill the transom on my 1961 runabout boat.I dug all the old wood out with a chainsaw and filled the cavity with the epoxy,you can literally take a hammer to it and it will not phase it.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

I have slow hardener, and working in a cool basement, pot life down there is like an hour+ with this stuff. Also, a mixer on a drill does wonders.

Freestylegeek did it this way and had zero problems.

I will restate this a different way then ,for those of you who do not already have the additives and epoxy ,this product is a better way to go and probably cheaper as well.Costwise I was comparing this to Plexus,Duramix and some of the other various adhesives out on the market .

 

[SuperJETT]

I will restate this a different way then ,for those of you who do not already have the additives and epoxy ,this product is a better way to go and probably cheaper as well.Costwise I was comparing this to Plexus,Duramix and some of the other various adhesives out on the market .

Yes, cheaper and easier than those products for sure.

I already have the resin/slow hardener/filler (both West 406 and Cabosil)/etc so it's probably $30 cheaper to do it the DIY way for me.

 

[SUPERJET-113]

Yeah, I can see both your points(WFO/SuperJETT), but this could come in handy for sure, and the price is nice especially for a West System product.
Thanks for the tip!

BTW - If you use Six10, you have more time for Four20!
:haha:

 

[crossr]

I found this thread while searching for alternatives to Plexus for glueing my hull together. I checked West Marine's website and they got the Six10 adhesive for $3.99 a tube.:dunno: Looks like a mistake but I ordered 3 tubes. They also show the same stuff for $20.99 a tube. I bought the cheap stuff Thanks WFO Speedracer for the tip.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

anytime man

 

[crossr]

I found this thread while searching for alternatives to Plexus for glueing my hull together. I checked West Marine's website and they got the Six10 adhesive for $3.99 a tube.:dunno: Looks like a mistake but I ordered 3 tubes. They also show the same stuff for $20.99 a tube. I bought the cheap stuff Thanks WFO Speedracer for the tip.

Don't order the 3.99 stuff, it's just extra static mixing tubes. The West marine website is wrong.

It took all of three tubes of six10 to glue my hull together. There is not as much epoxy in each tube as it would appear