New FPP

0

07txlex

So UPS just dropped off my new unmolested Fx-1 pipe. I'm proud lol! Anyways anyone have an explanation of how to remove the stock exhaust, like where's the best place to start! I already have tank, and battery out. Also should I just follow their intructions to install the FP or do you experts have a faster way/hints from all your exeperiences. Thanks:wave:

028.jpg
 
Last edited:
thegoldenboy

thegoldenboy

RN Surgery... soon
Location
Toronto
Ohhhhhh purdy!

Disconnect lines first
Waterbox hoseclamp
head mount bolts
remove bulky section of pipe
remove manifold bolts.

may need a 12mm wrench ground down slightly. You'll see what I mean when you get into it, bolts are super tight into place.

Take your time, don't strip the bolt head or cylinder by forcing it.

I think I was getting 1/4 turn at a time with a box end wrench unmodified. Space too tight to get a socket in.
 
oxnard111

oxnard111

Creative RE Purchasing
Location
so Cali, Ventura/Oxnard area
When installing the chamber I have found it best to start with the manifold connected to the engine that is already installed into the hull.

Next you want to take the chamber and position it where it will normally sit and slip the front of the chamber into the hose going to the water box.

Next with the coupler already connected to the head pipe, slide the head pipe into position and slide the coupler onto the chamber and then install and tighten the bolts that connect the head pipe to the manifold.

Tighten your large coupler hose clamps, and then the front hose clamp. Give it some good yanks as to make sure I will not pop loose when you ride it.

This way is much much much easier than connecting up the head pipe first and then trying to position the chamber.

Also another tip is to use a light coat of grease or vasoline on the head pipe gasket so that it can be re used multiple time.
 
Last edited:
oxnard111

oxnard111

Creative RE Purchasing
Location
so Cali, Ventura/Oxnard area
Idok said:
also putting the blue coupler in a vice to stretch it out first will make it waaaaaaay easier to install for the first time..
Click to expand...

never thought of that... i probably shouldn't have but I just used a very very light coat of silicone lubricant. I was just getting so tired of fighting the damn thing I went ahead and sprayed it down.
 
WAB

WAB

salty nuts
Location
coastal GA
boil the new blue rubber coupler for a little while. Then run it out the garage to put on a vise and OPEN the vise to stretch the coupler. Let it cool on the vise. Repeat as needed.
That is, unless you have a couple of double jointed gorillas to help you get it on.


Edit: posted same times as the Idok.
 
Last edited:
0

07txlex

Cool I've got everything off including the 8 12mm bolts that hold stock manifold on the cylinder. It's stuck on there, what's the safe way to get it off? Also if your standing on the mani side of the boat and looking down right above the top two left side mani bolts there were two bolts holding the bottom of the stock exhaust head bracket. Do those need to be put back in?:sad6:
 
oxnard111

oxnard111

Creative RE Purchasing
Location
so Cali, Ventura/Oxnard area
07txlex said:
Cool I've got everything off including the 8 12mm bolts that hold stock manifold on the cylinder. It's stuck on there, what's the safe way to get it off? Also if your standing on the mani side of the boat and looking down right above the top two left side mani bolts there were two bolts holding the bottom of the stock exhaust head bracket. Do those need to be put back in?:sad6:
Click to expand...

you just need to find a nice pry point to get the manifold off. maybe use a rubber mallet????

the two holes you speak of will now remain empty once you install your new manifold.
 
0

07txlex

oxnard111 said:
you just need to find a nice pry point to get the manifold off. maybe use a rubber mallet????

the two holes you speak of will now remain empty once you install your new manifold.
Click to expand...

Great that's what I thought about the holes, I just wanted to be sure! And about prying I guess that makes sense, I've just heard 61x cylinders are prone to cracking so I didnt just wanna tweak away. Thanks ox oh and FP says to cut 3/4" off the waterbox hose.. That sound about right?
 
oxnard111

oxnard111

Creative RE Purchasing
Location
so Cali, Ventura/Oxnard area
07txlex said:
Great that's what I thought about the holes, I just wanted to be sure! And about prying I guess that makes sense, I've just heard 61x cylinders are prone to cracking so I didnt just wanna tweak away. Thanks ox oh and FP says to cut 3/4" off the waterbox hose.. That sound about right?
Click to expand...

that I cannot tell you about cutting the hose. I have never worked with an FX chamber before. Just use your best judgment when cutting. Cut a little at a time.
 
0

07txlex

Quick questions.. Can I go buy some normal screw clamps to use instead of the otikers which I HATE! and how important is it to get every single bit of the old gasket off before installing the new one?
 
oxnard111

oxnard111

Creative RE Purchasing
Location
so Cali, Ventura/Oxnard area
07txlex said:
Quick questions.. Can I go buy some normal screw clamps to use instead of the otikers which I HATE! and how important is it to get every single bit of the old gasket off before installing the new one?
Click to expand...

just any stainless hose clamp will work.

get all the gasket off. use a scrapper, sand paper, wire brush, anything that will help you get it off.
 
0

07txlex

Alright so that was the biggest bitch I've experienced! But the hardware is in the boat and mounted!! I have the water line from the bulkhead to the bottom of the FP manifold. I have the water line from the head to the top of the FP headpipe. The only thing that puzzles me is that for the chamber to fit the stinger nipple is sticking straight up, like there is about an inch and a half between that and the nipple for the side squirter. How the ******** am I supposed to get the 10 inch hose from the "T" to the stinger and the 3 inch hose from the "T" to the side outlet? It's almost like the chamber is to big! Imma be MAD AS HELL if they sent me a mod or limited with an added dent to work instead of a real fx-1 chamber. if it helps the chamber dent that goes around the gas tank is even with the rubber bumper for the gas tank. HELP thanks
 
special fx

special fx

X
Location
Brigantine, NJ
That's an FX chamber. I relocated the pisser fitting to the rear of the hull 'cause the stock location really sux with the factory pipe. It'll work, there's just no real clean way to route the lines.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom