need some expert help ski wont start after running

[onesojourner]

ok update. replacing all my pop of related parts did not fix the problem, its as bad as ever. Here are some pics of the carbs pooling fuel in them.

I have been having problems since last year with my ski not wanting to start after I have been riding around. I can ride all day and it runs top notch. The problem is when I shut it off. I rebuilt the carbs with a jss kit last year. Still had the problem. Then I swapped the cdi out of my blaster and thought I fixed it but its still happening.

Today it got worse. I used to be able to fall off it would die I would hit start and it was good. the problem only came when it sat for more than a couple seconds. Today it would not start no matter how long it had sat. In the past I could give it 30 minutes and it would go again though. Today I figure out that swapping the plugs would get it going. new plugs hit start and away I went. I confirmed this 3 times. I was swapping back and forth between 2 sets of plugs. The plugs appeared dry each time.

small update:
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/54812/post-725814#post725814

 

[Wolf Child]

try starting it with a stick of dynamite.

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

Its either jetted so terribly thats its fouling the plugs, or maybe its ingesting water? you got stock head or O ring?

either MIGHT be leaking a little.

umm, weak ignition maybe coupled with either scenario above.. would make it a bear to start.

 

[Talsivar]

a weak spark from a failing stator maybee?

 

[ADDict]

Pop off too low, possibly letting pressurized fuel from the tank to flood your carbs when you shut it off. Just a suggestion, I could be way off!
What is your pop off on the carbs..? Is it the same on both? And when you rebuilt, did you go with all new N&S's, springs, etc?

 

[Jp116]

Had a similar problem before. It finaly wouldn't start at all. It was the red cable from the battery to the starter solonoid. It had corrodid and when it finaly broke right off it wouldn't start again. Fixed that and no problem since

 

[onesojourner]

here is the kit I used on the rebuild. http://www.jetskisolutions.com/p59_custom_mikuni_rebuild_kit.html

its been over a year so I don't remember it very well.

I will check the battery cable here in a few.

 

[lakeboy183]

i had this happen before and it was caused by a bad battery that couldnt hold a charge. my 2 cents

 

[jetskee]

I had something similar once, and it was because that little white
one-way valve that allows air into the gas tank was on backwards.
The longer I rode, the more suction built up in the gas tank until the engine could no longer suck new fuel. But the ski would run great for a while, then start stalling,etc.

Not EXACTLY the same problem, but it is another possibility.

 

[onesojourner]

I don't have any issues at all while its running so I don't think that's it. I can ride for 10 min or an hour and it runs great the whole time.

 

[keegan]

anyone else have any ideas? This guy needs his ski running!

 

[ger87410]

The description in the first post was kinda vague about describing the problem. I've read all the posts here and am still unable to describe the problem you're experiencing.

Is it that you have to crank the ski a long time before it turns over on it's own?
Is it that it won't crank at all?
Which ski is it? The SJ or the Blaster?
What does it do after you turn it off and let it sit for awhile then try starting it again?

I guess, basically, I'm asking what the symptoms are.

 

[onesojourner]

Its the SJ. It turns over fine. It just wont fire until I swap the plugs.

In the past I could let it set for an half hour/ an hour and it would start again. I did not try to let it set this time though.

pics of the pistons here. http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/54812/post-725814#post725814

 

[SUPERTUNE]

Sounds like your carb is flooding from the needle and seat leaking after engine is off for a few minutes. Just replace everything the operates them, Needle seat assembly, float arm, float pin and pop off spring. Check the round diaphram that's is not stretched out and putting pressure on the float arm.

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

thats a good call on the leaky needle/seat.

Peter, a good way to test this..

turn your fuel valve ON , and on a warm SUNNY day, with a full tank, the heat will liely pressurize the tank enough for you too see the carb, dribbling.

remove air cleaner, look down carb throats, be patient.

ive seen mine do this before, back when I was trouble shooting.

maybe you can isolate which carb it is, and only replace one needle/seat, they are like $25 each..

oh, all needles are the same size, the seats are differtn 1.5/2.0/2.5...

 

[cookerq62]

Take out your One way valve & give it a try. The water box can heat up the gas tank & make a bad needle & seat worse by building up excessive pressure from heat especially with winter gas. You'll notice this when you open your gas cap and it pops off or hisses. Another possibility is a bad gasket letting water into the chamber.

 

[onesojourner]

what gasket are you talking about?

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

Id guess he means head gasket.

exh manifold gasket leaked on my 750sx, and put some water back into the cylinder after it sat for a while too. steam, condense, fouled plug.

what gasket are you talking about?

 

[WET BOX]

I would isolate whether it is fuel or spark. I would lean towards spark unless you have verified it has fire when it doesn't start. Good Luck!

 

[onesojourner]

wouldn't the fact that it fires fine as soon as a swap plugs prove there is spark?