My engine is fouling a set of sparkplugs by the end of each day of riding? (SOLVED)

LMnsr

Freerider297
Location
Aruba
Also mentioned hard starting. Are we sure the carbs are working right? You are doing a lot of idling. Leaking popoff or being rich on the bottom will make it load up a lot and foul the plugs. You probably never have it WOT for more then moments. I have to run a bit richer than most to keep from leaning out WOT when racing. My ski runs super crisp during regular riding but in the surf it starts running rich. I have to replace my plugs much more often with frequent surf riding.

JM and Xmetal said I should be 135/75@32, but I'm running 140/75@18 so I can race. Their specs were better in surf and flatwater conditions with frequent idling but my ski would lean out on the top.
This is true. the most I have it wide open is 3-4 seconds. i haven't been in the surf yet but yes i ride around at low to mid rpms most of the time and open the throttle once in awhile or if I have to catch up to a boat.

I'm pretty sure my carbs need some tuning.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
This is true. the most I have it wide open is 3-4 seconds. i haven't been in the surf yet but yes i ride around at low to mid rpms most of the time and open the throttle once in awhile or if I have to catch up to a boat.

I'm pretty sure my carbs need some tuning.

I would assume you meant you are fouling plugs. They would be black and smell strongly of fuel, and stop sparking correctly, especially at high RPM. If you have any doubts about your electronics, fix those issues because they can definitely cause plug fouling, but if your ski is bogging and running rich, carbs would seem like an obvious starting point.
 
Location
Stockton
Looks like the exhaust hose drops well below the carbs on its way by so that's good. You have a water box and not a resonator so that's good. On some of the shorter hulls nowadays the exhaust tube is run out the back of the hull 2 or 3 inches to help with bog on hard turns or landings, that won't cause your bog when trying start from shore or when switching riders. I did have a broken water box baffle once and it caused an intermitant bog but not as bad as yours. I'd agree with Vumad you may have an issue with your carbs. Did you ever check the internal screen filters in the carbs I forget?
 
My 1100 Dasa started doing this a few weeks ago too, Epic ignition(positive that's not the prob), either a connection in the Ebox or a coil or plugcap issue. A set every weekend, 10 minutes of cool down and new plugs and it starts and runs perfect again? Like you I have never fouled this many plugs, last fouled ski plugs was 10 years ago.
 

LMnsr

Freerider297
Location
Aruba
I apologize for not responding. Just got back last night

I think I might just get new carbs since i am planning on getting an ada head. I don't want to take any chances.
Should I go oem or get an aftermarket carb I can use on my current setup?
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
I apologize for not responding. Just got back last night

I think I might just get new carbs since i am planning on getting an ada head. I don't want to take any chances.
Should I go oem or get an aftermarket carb I can use on my current setup?

You should run the stock 38s that came on the motor. If you like to get rid of your money for no reason, I'll give you my Paypal address.

It might be a good investment to take the ski to a skilled mechanic to set it up for you. I do my own work on my x2 because it is a hobby, but now that I found bad boys racing, I drop my superjet off, harry goes through everything. I get it back working perfectly faster than I could have even found time to look at it myself.
 
I apologize for not responding. Just got back last night

I think I might just get new carbs since i am planning on getting an ada head. I don't want to take any chances.
Should I go oem or get an aftermarket carb I can use on my current setup?
Tried a different set of carbs for the bogging, didn't work, it was too much water in the pipe for me. I am putting in a spare coil this weekend and inspecting the ebox while I am in there.
 

LMnsr

Freerider297
Location
Aruba
You should run the stock 38s that came on the motor. If you like to get rid of your money for no reason, I'll give you my Paypal address.

It might be a good investment to take the ski to a skilled mechanic to set it up for you. I do my own work on my x2 because it is a hobby, but now that I found bad boys racing, I drop my superjet off, harry goes through everything. I get it back working perfectly faster than I could have even found time to look at it myself.
There is a guy coming this afternoon to take a look at the plug situation. He is going to try to pinpoint the problem. I don't mind spending some money on getting my ski to run well.
 

LMnsr

Freerider297
Location
Aruba
Tried a different set of carbs for the bogging, didn't work, it was too much water in the pipe for me. I am putting in a spare coil this weekend and inspecting the ebox while I am in there.
Thanks.. Could this happen with a b-pipe? should I look into switching to an rrp also?
 

SkiDiggity

formerly kawirider142
Is it me or does it look like there might be water on the bottom of the plugs? If the head gasket is letting in bits of water it can make it bog when first starting up since it is not hot enough to get left over water to evaporate. I had that issue with my stocker a while ago. Just a thought.
 
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LMnsr

Freerider297
Location
Aruba
Update..
I took the ski out on Saturday and still has the problem..
First I tried a different sparkplug. I tried BR7HS since someone told me the ski might be running too cool. But that didn't work out. It overheated my engine and the sensor kicked in. So i switched back to the br8hs.
I did switched over to Klotz high performance 2 cycle oil. This made a pretty noticable difference on the engine. It just felt better and i like the scent ha I will post a pic tomorrow when I remove the plugs to compare the oils.
I was using Royal Purple and that left a lot of resin on the plugs, so lets see..

I'm thinking my problem might be somewhere in my carbs...
Source for the following texts "http://www.factorypipe.com/t_carbtuning.php"

While reading the article a few things caught my attention..

1."Remember, the low speed adjuster is only for adjusting the idle mixture. If you use the adjuster to help get rid of a low speed hesitation, you will probably find that your engine will load up in no wake zones, or after extended idling.".

I am pretty sure this is is happening also..

2."An indication that your pop-off needs to be adjusted is a lean hesitation when you open the throttle from idle; in the extreme, the engine may even die. It is much easier to detect a lean pop-off than it is a rich one, so it is wise to adjust your pop-off until you get it too lean and then back up until the lean hesitation disappears."

3."Fuel Dripping From The Inner Venturi At Idle
This situation occurs periodically and is easy to cure. What causes this problem is a combination of two things. First, low pop-off pressure (due to installation of a 2.5 needle valve with a light spring pressure) together with an engine that has substantial vibration at idle. The engine vibration causes the needle valve to leak, which causes the engine to run even rougher. You can view this occurrence by carefully looking into the throat of the carb at idle, you will be able to see fuel dripping from the inner venturi. In this same way you can also check to see that the problem is corrected. The cure for the problem is to increase pop-off pressure until the dripping stops."

Hopefully someone can tell me if i'm on the right track. This weekend my goal is to retune my carbs + B-pipe the way it states on the website. Basically following these instructions step by step.
http://www.factorypipe.com/t_carbtuning.php + http://www.factorypipe.com/t_pipetuning.php

One thing I forgot to mention was everytime it bogged if I leaned the ski to the left making the exhaust stick out of the water and i rev it it cleared up a lot quicker.
Is it my carbs or my pipe? either way I am retuning both just to make sure
 

LMnsr

Freerider297
Location
Aruba
I was watching the videos of saturday and spotted something... One of my pissers seems to be kind of sputtering water. Not sure if that's the word but it sputters until it clears up and it becomes a steady constant stream. I am going to upload a video so you can see. I am pretty sure that is the one that goes directly to the head.
 

LMnsr

Freerider297
Location
Aruba
Here is the video. I exported with a wrong profile so its a bit small but you can see it pretty clearly.
The ski bogged to a stop while riding. The second time was checking the water temp and it shut off again. I didn't block off the pissers in any way.
You can see it pretty clearly the second time it shuts off.

The second part of the video on the second jump that was full throttle. I'm not sure if that's how it should sound or perform since I never ridden another standup before. This is the main reason I want more power, it doesn't feel like it launches me off the wave. Don't get me wrong, if I come at a speed towards a boat wake or yacht wake I go pretty high, but i have to come at a higher speed. If im at low cruising speed and I punch the throttle it doesn't respond enough to shoot me off the wave.
 
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Location
Stockton
Good find Lmsnr! Bruceski has it, I recall seeing a bunch of rust coming out between your head and cylinder too. That might explain your slightly lower compression in one cylinder
 

SkiDiggity

formerly kawirider142
That's what I said 8 posts ago.. I had the same issue with my 650sx with the pisser and found out it was my head gasket. Before diving into the carbs and messing with all that complicated stuff, get yourself a new head gasket and go from there.
 
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