Let's talk paint for a second...

K

Kennay

Squarenose for the _____
Location
Myrtle Beach, SC
So let me first start with "Paint talk has been beaten to death" Yes, I know. It just makes me feel better to ask for myself and cover a couple of things that I haven't seen answered or even talked about.

1.) Should I even bother priming/painting the tray area where the turf will glue down? If not, it sure would save me an asston of sanding.... my main concern is whether or not the weldwood glue will stick correctly to the epoxy glaze.

2.) How anal should I be about places that I can't exactly get to to make it "Gloss free" regarding places I have epoxied... And by this I mean "I've scratched the area up good, but there are tiny spots of gloss down deep in there in the little voids and what not. This is mostly on the underside of the rub rail in the nose area where it's hard as hell to nock down with paper.... damn squarenose.

3.) Has anyone ever heard of "U-Tech" paint? I was in the paint store today talking to the guy about various things.... he recommended me this polyurethane paint over the Omni or any other PPG paint. Total cost with primer and paint/hardener was like 80 bucks. That is cheap as hell in my opinion... no?

4.) IN YOUR OPINION.... what would be a fair price to paint a jet ski? when most of the sanding and what not is done already for ya? Example: I went to a local custom hotrod shop on Monday, and talked with one of the guys there for a while about painting the ski, and then slapping some nice sized "Lo-Ride Customs" logos on each side of the ski. One per side.... it's actually a cool looking logo. I just explained to him my tight budget, and that I didn't mind helping out their business with a little advertisement if the price was right. He told me he would give it to me for half price, and keep it looking good... scratches, ect... Where would you draw the line to say "Hey, that's worth it," or "Sorry dude, I think I will just paint it myself. I have access to a paint gun and compressor of sufficient size.

Thoughts? Opinions? Ramblings? Hot daughters you may have? I mean... yea, so let's hear it. As usual, thank you from the bottom of my heart/ genital region my Xh2o peoples..

Kenneth :Banane57:
 
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McDog

McDog

Other Administrator
Staff member
Location
South Florida
The local boat shop wanted $1000 to paint my white ski white. I told him to kiss my a$$. $1000 is a lot of potential horsepower.
 
DR3

DR3

Xscream Braaaap
Location
palm harbor, Fl
1. i wouldnt worry about the tray area at all... just keep it taped off so you dont get any overspray on the non-sanded areas b.c itll take twice as long to get off (machine or not) and u can DA it later after it painted real quick

2. on the areas you cant get to i have yet to find an area i cant or one of my guys get to skis... i wouldnt be as anal with the fine grit paper in those hard to reach areas (like behind the rubrails) but at least scuff it up with something just so it doesnt peel and start a big mess later.. def sand anything shiny you can see... please!!!!!!!

3. paint.... price...you pretty much get what you pay for...i have done some bigger boats for some guys on a budget with some single stage paint and it turns out pretty nice but the finish and hold up are pretty much in half of something thats worth spraying that you can polish to a show finish...
i just finished 2 skis and for the average price in materials it costs me ( about $250-300 maybe more depending on how many pieces youre painting color schemes...thats my cost just one color.... and not marked up but all dupont products)

4. as far as ppl bringing you their ski already sanded.... most ppl would be better off just letting the shop do it b.c every job i have done like that i end up going back over everything anyways and they think they saved themselves a bunch of money b.c they have hours and hours of labor in sanding which would usually the shope could have done in half the time and fixing flaws in the meantime as they see them...

if i were you and your not looking for a show quality job but yet still pretty nice just do it yourself with a single stage and sand the crap out of the thing ... you could probably get some materials for around 100$ with prime
hope this helps
 
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K

Kennay

Squarenose for the _____
Location
Myrtle Beach, SC
flacarncycleguy said:
1. i wouldnt worry about the tray area at all... just keep it taped off so you dont get any overspray on the non-sanded areas b.c itll take twice as long to get off (machine or not) and u can DA it later after it painted real quick

2. on the areas you cant get to i have yet to find an area i cant or one of my guys get to skis... i wouldnt be as anal with the fine grit paper in those hard to reach areas (like behind the rubrails) but at least scuff it up with something just so it doesnt peel and start a big mess later.. def sand anything shiny you can see... please!!!!!!!

3. paint.... price...you pretty much get what you pay for...i have done some bigger boats for some guys on a budget with some single stage paint and it turns out pretty nice but the finish and hold up are pretty much in half of something thats worth spraying that you can polish to a show finish...
i just finished 2 skis and for the average price in materials it costs me ( about $250-300 (my cost.... not marked up but all dupont products)

4. as far as ppl bringing you their ski already sanded.... most ppl would be better off just letting the shop do it b.c every job i have done like that i end up going back over everything anyways and they think they saved themselves a bunch of money b.c they have hours and hours of labor in sanding which would usually the shope could have done in half the time and fixing flaws in the meantime as they see them...

if i were you and your not looking for a show quality job but yet still pretty nice just do it yourself with a single stage and sand the crap out of the thing ... you could probably get some materials for around 100$ with prime
hope this helps
Click to expand...

When I mean already sanded, I meant stripped of old paint, and any repairs done with epoxy has been sanded down, and are awaiting sanding with 320 or whatever.

the problem with the old paint was that it was bubbling up in tiny little spots. the sorts weren't hollow, but something like a small mole with a powdery center. I guess someone didn't go a good job with the prep work before or something. I hated to sand those out and repaint over it, so I pretty much sanded all of that off with 120 that I could get to.
 
DR3

DR3

Xscream Braaaap
Location
palm harbor, Fl
Kennay said:
When I mean already sanded, I meant stripped of old paint, and any repairs done with epoxy has been sanded down, and are awaiting sanding with 320 or whatever.

the problem with the old paint was that it was bubbling up in tiny little spots. the sorts weren't hollow, but something like a small mole with a powdery center. I guess someone didn't go a good job with the prep work before or something. I hated to sand those out and repaint over it, so I pretty much sanded all of that off with 120 that I could get to.
Click to expand...

if you could get those bubbles out and all smooth with 100-120 on a file or by hand and then go over it with 180 on a DA to get the heavy 100grit scratches out and then prime over that you should be good... then maybe block it with 320 then to 400 and then that would give someone a good base to start putting color on or work it from there
 
K

Kennay

Squarenose for the _____
Location
Myrtle Beach, SC
Cool. Do you think that happened because of the particular spots under the bubbled up places, or the paint/primer as a whole? I guess what I am wondering is, would you think the original paint/primer would also bubble under the new paint, or would you say that all that bubbled to begin with is all that is going to bubble?

And thanks alot for helping me out! Seriously
 
chrisdoc0608

chrisdoc0608

insulting
Location
rocky mount, nc
if you want to take a trip to rocky mount my friend owns a car/bike shop and will prep and paint it for around $250 and he does damn good work.... but thats a long drive lol
 
F

Flat Brapp

h2o
Location
Jacksonville florida
I used interlux, not super glossy but it looks nice. Primed and painted 4 coats of blue for 50$ i spent 100 on a top loading paint gun. For my battle boat this stuff is perfect, easy touch ups and good durability.
 
bign1514

bign1514

"Rock-Man"
Location
Louisville, Ky
I used the interlux brightside - about 25 bucks for a quart and i did five coats of rolling and tipping with another coat left of paint for touch ups.... i was very please the way it came out for the money. I did use the brightside which seems to chip easy, but easy to touch up. Its has done an excellent job in the water so far. I would def. try the interlux perfection system, its suppose to be a harder surface after dry time.

If you want to go with one or two colors and save some money - def. would recommend this stuff. The roll and tip method worked great for me. Looks sprayed on. I did prep really good though.

Below is what it turn out after painting. Put some wax on it and gave it a nice gloss.
 

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DR3

DR3

Xscream Braaaap
Location
palm harbor, Fl
Kennay said:
Cool. Do you think that happened because of the particular spots under the bubbled up places, or the paint/primer as a whole? I guess what I am wondering is, would you think the original paint/primer would also bubble under the new paint, or would you say that all that bubbled to begin with is all that is going to bubble?

And thanks alot for helping me out! Seriously
Click to expand...

i would maybe just try 80 on a file and get the most off you can maybe tear into the whole thing if its that bad and use a good epoxy prime as a fresh sealer/base that will be super stable...def use and epoxy prime if its that nasty..
 
shift1313

shift1313

Location
Blacksburg, VA
rattle can it kenneth:)

This may not be right but has anyone tried using the roll on paint? Tremclad in canada and rustoleum industrial in the states i believe. Basically its diluted with mineral spirits and it is supposed to be self leveling. It requires a lot of color sanding but you are supposed to be able to paint a car for $50. I was going to try it on a vehicle one of these days. Im sure you sould still need a clear over top of it but it wouldnt take that long to roll on and your bulk of the price would be in sand paper. IF you have a DA it shouldnt take too long to level it out.

As far as rattle cans go i like the krylon fusion paints, they adhere really well. I painted a motorcycle with 500degree engine paints because it had a ceramic in it which made it a tad harder and that suff leveled out really nicely as well.

here is a link to a few pics of the bike

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/GPz750/May19_01.jpg

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/GPz750/PB200010.jpg

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/GPz750/9.jpg

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/GPz750/rearclose2.jpg
 
WFO Speedracer

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
I have used some Kirker paint on a couple of projects around here,it is single stage polyurethane and I swear it laid down as well or better that the PPG I have been spraying for years,much cheaper too.
 
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