I am not Happy-SOB

[Aka Kane]

Here is what I did,

One post is from the battery side and is always at the voltage the battery is at.

Then I test the other side that goes to the starter, and even after pressing start, it gets no juice to the wire that goes to the starter. even if I bridged them, and press start...No juice getes to the side that goes to the starter.

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

if you bridge them then it has to be there.

if its not getting there when you push start, its either the start switch, or the solenoid.

you need someone close to you to help look at it.

its very hard to help, and diagnose from this distance with text, and occasional photographs.

 

[Aka Kane]

Thats what I don't get,

The voltage is at one post, but even bridging them it doesnt get to the other post, and does not register on the screwdriver I use to bidge, or the wire I used to bridge.

 

[Waste Land]

Kane...give me a call

 

[sflsurfrider]

are you using a rusty screwdriver?

theres no reason to hit start when youre bridging the 2 terminals on the relay.

wait a minute.... 2 probes, a screwdriver and a start button...... how many hands do you have?!?!

:haha:


like lo flake said, if your getting power on the battery side post (line side) on the relay and bridging that to the starter side post (load side) on the relay, both posts and the screwdriver should give you a 12v reading when you have the black probe grounded.

 

[sflsurfrider]

Thats what I don't get,

The voltage is at one post, but even bridging them it doesnt get to the other post, and does not register on the screwdriver I use to bidge, or the wire I used to bridge.

are you using a glass screwdriver?

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

yeah somehting isnt right here.

and no offence Kane, but I think your testing methods might be running you in circles.

I would offer to call and help you out, but im puttnig kids to sleep ( tomorow is first day of school) and then watching Billy Shatner ROAST.

If wasted terra doesnt get you straightened out, Ill give you a call tomorow and try.

 

[Aka Kane]

Waste,

I am calling you now

I dont understand it either, and I am not completely dumb. It doesnt make since, I used a wire to bridge from the battery side to the starter post...And still reads nothing on both the starter post, and bridge. but the batterry terminal is still showing 12.35 volts while the bridge is on...

 

[Aka Kane]

This is too weird....Ok, I did not bridge them this time, I just directly connected the wires on the two posts, by unscrewing them from the relay and holding the two tabs together....Wire HOLDING THEM TOGETHER THE Battery Side Measures 12.35 and the Starter Side measures 0 and sometims .1...What could cause this!

 

[sflsurfrider]

where is your negative probe when your doing all these tests?

 

[freeride4me]

Dont know if anyone touched on this angle. I have had this problem personally on my FX1. Check your start/stop/lanyard switch! I also had B1(blaster 1)that I checked for good known values(ohm &/or voltage readings).I ended up buying a new one after temporarily cleaning/fixing the problem a few times. Basicly,the problem are contacts that connect when your lanyard is connected get corroded & resistance goes up-down-all over causing the ski to work fine-so so-or not at all.Well my finger is getting tired. Good luck!

 

[Aka Kane]

Hey man,

I don't think its possible to be the start stop because we cut that out when we did the test that bridged the relay, and connected the battery to the starter wire directly.

 

[keefer]

It could be the starter. If the commutator is worn, or if the brushes are bad the it could cause the problems you are having too. We are still working towards that with this troubleshooting process. Be patient.:banghead:

And I quote myself, if you have run a wire from the positive of the battery to the starter and if the ground wire is good, then you have a bad starter like I mentioned above.

 

[Aka Kane]

Keefer,

I guess that this is the next test...What will I need to do? Will a bad starter cause the wire leading to it at the relay not to get a charge?

 

[sflsurfrider]

where is your negative probe when your doing all these tests?

AHEM!

 

[sflsurfrider]

Keefer,

I guess that this is the next test...What will I need to do? Will a bad starter cause the wire leading to it at the relay not to get a charge?

nope

 

[Aka Kane]

It is on a SHINEY Head bolt.

 

[Aka Kane]

If I could just get power to the cable leading to the starter I think it would turn over, but its like when I touch the cable reading 12.35 it all dissappers...even the cable with power goes to zero....I ll make a video tommarrow showing the bull********.

 

[Marshj]

who uses probs anyaways. just touch that bitch together with a STEEL screwdriver and if she fires, then you know the relay is bad. If not, bummer

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

If I could just get power to the cable leading to the starter I think it would turn over, but its like when I touch the cable reading 12.35 it all dissappers...even the cable with power goes to zero....I ll make a video tommarrow showing the bull********.

Kane, if everything else is together right, and you arent doing anything silly.

then this points to a DEAD battery.

a battery can still show 12.xx volts, and not be able to develope enough current to spin a starter, when it tries the voltage drops to nearly nothing.

try this.

unhook both connectors at your battery,

get jumper cables from your car battery ( careful dont touch them together!)

clamp red/red black/black

and try to start it.

now try your voltage tests again.

this totally eiliminates your ski battery from the tests.
and assumes the car battery is good ( its started your car right?)

do all of your voltage testing, and solenoid jumpering like this again, and see if anything is different.