Help with 701 flywheel key

Pro-pulsion

Pro-pulsion

Location
Ontario, Canada
teton said:
that might have sounded overly harsh....the flywheel if stock is steel, eather way the flywheel never comes into cantact with the threads of the bolt, the only thing the bolt does is tighten the flywheel on the flange...so the loctite if used right should not come into contact with the crank flange and the flywheel.....

and with the constant acceleration/deceleration of any flywheel it would be wise to use loctite or some other means of preventing that bolt from loosening...
Click to expand...

Yup, I know about the flywheel, been a certified small engine tech for the last 10 years. The point I was making was that red loctite balls up and when in contact with aluminum surfaces such as the flywheel alone, the possibility of that stuff doing some wild and crazy things is there. Agreed on the the bolt however, for that I wouldn't hesitate to use blue there. Blue is a tech's best friend lol.
 
Speedfreak

Speedfreak

Location
So. IL
I didn't comment during the right section since the topic has changed but I lapped the flywheel with the crank snout with lapping compound to make a perfect match then hammered the bolt on with an impact. I get that bolt TIGHT. But I sheered the OEM key then 2 others from auto parts stores since they don't fit exact all within 5 hours. With the 2 aftermarket ones I tightened the flywheel bolt on by standing on the wrench on the beach. I wrenched on that thing all day at the LOTO ride a few years ago.

There is a TON of sheer force on that little Keyway. I would JBWeld it if I knew I didn't need it off again.
 
teton

teton

tetongravity.com
Location
Washington DC
Speedfreak said:
I didn't comment during the right section since the topic has changed but I lapped the flywheel with the crank snout with lapping compound to make a perfect match then hammered the bolt on with an impact. I get that bolt TIGHT. But I sheered the OEM key then 2 others from auto parts stores since they don't fit exact all within 5 hours. With the 2 aftermarket ones I tightened the flywheel bolt on by standing on the wrench on the beach. I wrenched on that thing all day at the LOTO ride a few years ago.

There is a TON of sheer force on that little Keyway. I would JBWeld it if I knew I didn't need it off again.
Click to expand...


I suspect the issue is, if the woodruff key is slightly larger it prevents the flywheel from mating correctly with the crank snout....this would put all the force on the key and cause the sheering you are talking about....
 
Speedfreak

Speedfreak

Location
So. IL
True on one of the aftermarket keys that I used. But one of the keys were smaller by a long shot but I assume that the mating surface on the snout was already disturbed keeping it from forming a good fit.

I know the surfaces should hold it like a morose taper on a drill chuck but the forces must be a lot greater on that crank shout because my OEM flywheel spun even after all the lapping to get it matched perfectly.
 
NVJAY775

NVJAY775

My home away from home.
Location
Gardnerville, Nevada, United States
It fired yesterday am. Then I had to work. (insert cuss word here) Taking it to the lake this afternoon.

I'm going to get a couple more keys just to have around. I can see myself lapping the surfaces also. They are a bit rough now.
 
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