Super Jet Help: Stripped Factory headpipe to manifold bolt threads
- Thread starter aramis
- Start date
BruceSki
Formerly Motoman25
- Location
- Long Island
FYI cylinder to case bolts work great too. OEM Yamaha hardware quality can't be beat. Put a girdle kit on and use the three cylinder bolts for your headpipe.
IMO, if you're going to helicoil or timesert it, you might as well go 3/8-24 threads. The helicoil/timesert kits are cheaper, the bolts are cheaper, and everything is WAY easier to find. 5 - 2" long socket cap bolts in SS are $6. http://www.mcmaster.com/#92196A365. Even the M10x1.25 socket cap bolts sold on here (which are nice) are not long enough IMO. I stripped the bolts Jetmaniac sold a year or so ago because they weren't engaging enough threads with my helicoils. Here's the kit if you can't find it locally. http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5528...FUOC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1334667627&sr=8-5. To each their own but this system is the holy grail compared to the M10 bolts IMO.
edit: If by some stroke of bad luck or poor judgement (my particular problem) you happen to find yourself needing or wanting to replace helicoils that aren't perfect and you screw up that hole. You can buy the 3/8-24 BigSerts which will work with your massive screwed up hole.
edit: If by some stroke of bad luck or poor judgement (my particular problem) you happen to find yourself needing or wanting to replace helicoils that aren't perfect and you screw up that hole. You can buy the 3/8-24 BigSerts which will work with your massive screwed up hole.
Last edited:
- Location
- Rochester, NY
Thanks for all the replies guys, I really appreciate it. I'm glad there's a relatively easy fix, I'm just still miffed that I've got to pull everything apart again!
Freakrider
X247
- Location
- Tampa Bay area
You know the helicoil can be done with manifold attached to motor and the head pipe can twist on the loosened coupler out of the way right ?
The underlined part sounds like more effort than just pulling it. My old SN came with one of the pipe bolts attached to a nut on that inboard hole and it worked for a long time. If you do helicoil it with the manifold attached to the motor like I've always done, I would highly recommend putting tape over the exhaust hole so metal shavings don't go down the engine.
- Location
- HUNTINGTON BEACH CA
i heli-coiled mine with 3/8-16 (rough thread better for aluminum) stainless insterts and picked up allen head ss bolts from mc master. i even run lock washers for extra assurance
Tyler Zane
Open Your Eyes
- Location
- Panama City Beach, FL
awesome info, going to garage now to ditch my nasty crudy factory pipe bolts.
Tyler Zane
Open Your Eyes
- Location
- Panama City Beach, FL
but like matt said in the beginning, marine grease is the trick to saving threads. also, i run a thread chaser down each thread, every time and the bolts get ran threw a die.
BruceSki
Formerly Motoman25
- Location
- Long Island
check the length. There are three longs and three shorts. You need the shorter ones I believe. Match them up to the factory pipe bolts.
Tyler Zane
Open Your Eyes
- Location
- Panama City Beach, FL
you totally saved me the 30 some odd dollars, i have been contemplating buying some stainless ones going around.
- Location
- El dorado hills
Has anyone done a through bolt with a lock washer and nut?
I've been doing that for at least 3 years. Never had a problem. If you grind down a flange nut just slightly it will hold itself against the surrounding surface while tightening. Actually think it is more secure this way as it sandwiches the manifold and headpipe together at a weak point.
Forgot the Duct tape. Lol
Carriage bolts won't work.
You need to use a longer bolt and a flange nut
Midlake Crisis
Site Supporter
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
Has anybody tried this brand [(E-Z Lok)?]
- Location
- mobile alabama
oem bolt isnt stainless
ive seen several of them rust
1st time i had threads fail i removed a bolt off my trailer and ran it through then put a nut on bottom
was a real pia but saved my day at the beach
i was a hr away from home
and no helis
time serts are the way !
jason
ive seen several of them rust
1st time i had threads fail i removed a bolt off my trailer and ran it through then put a nut on bottom
was a real pia but saved my day at the beach
i was a hr away from home
and no helis
time serts are the way !
jason
- Location
- central florida
Please consider applying (blue) loctite to the threads of the 3 fasteners and you wont compromise the threads in the manifold from the beginning. The manifold is made of aluminum. Your cap screws are not. Galvanic corrosion will eat the fine threads unless you use an inhibitor like loctite. Nice people don't use grease when screwing into aluminum- there is one exception that comes to mind: the M8 cap screws which fasten the bed plates to the rubber mounts. They should have grease or anti seize applied to enable future disassembly. (the lg. f/w and their length makes them "springy" enough not to loosen.)
