HELP! Mystery problems. I'm lost.

I'm baffled here, and thought I'd throw this out for a little brainstorming. It is a low hour, very clean, well maintained and pampered 2004 SXR 800. Stock with the exception of a FP wet pipe, Group K lightened flywheel, and Group K mild head mill.

About a month ago, I took my last ride. It was my first trip with this ski into the surf. Two hours into the ride, the ski instantly feels like it dropped a cylinder. I start heading for the beach and like a switch, it's comes back to life... for two more minutes, then back to crippled.

It took me nearly 25 minutes to limp it back into the inlet. During this time, it would start and idle perfectly. It never got hot. It basically felt like it was hitting the rev limiter about 400 RPM above idle. It would not rev out at all. At no time did it have an excessive amount of water in the hull.

Got it back to the rental house, and flushed it out. Still wouldn't rev out.

The next day, I tried to start it, and it wouldn't start. It would fire however, only as long as I help the start botton in. I put new plugs in, and checked that they were making fire. They were. I went through my intake. The reeds were fine. I switched intakes with a friend. Nothing. Fuel is flowing fine. Checked the compression. 165 per hole.

For whatever reason, I unplugged the Factory Pipe jumper to see what would happen. With it removed (the ignition retarded 6 degrees), the boat acted just the same as it did the day before. It would now start, and idle well, just wouldn't rev out. Put the jumper back in, and nothing. No starting at all.

At this point, I'm convinced it's a timing issue, since I know I'm getting spark, air, and fuel, but no action, unless I retard the timing via the jumper.

In a pinch, I get John @ Blowsion, and Steve @ JSU on the phone. (right in the middle of their Havasu return, thanks guys). After brain picking, I figure the flywheel ket has sheered and got the timing out of whack.

Pulled the flywheel off. Wheel, key, crank, are all perfect.

Now I'm down to the only thing I can think of that would alter timing. The CDI. (it is the stocker). After I told Steve about it actually firing only as long as the start button was in, it sparked something in his brain, and he too thought it must be the CDI. (he told me the theory, but he seemed sharp, and it was a bit over my recreational wrencher head)

Fast forward one month, to now...

I pull my box apart. Everything is dry and clean. Rip another CDI off a friends ski to swap and varify that's the problem. Before I take mine off, I give it one last try to varify it's still crippled.

The piece of crap starts and revs out fine!!!!!!!!! Ahhhhh...

I would rather have known the CDI was screwed, and spent $500 to know it was fixed. As is, I have no faith in my ski, and our next ride will more than likely be a long trip back to the surf in the spring.

Throw out some ideas please. I have run out of my own.

Thanks, Greg

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godocgo

sport
Location
s. fla
i would still say cdi, it probably got hot before. you gave it time to cool off and now it works. carry a spare cdi next time you go ride.
 
Check this out. I just ran it on the hose for about 20 minutes. Starts/idles/rev great. Puked out LOADS of VERY thick oil....

No excessive smoke. Just spooge.

No I was running salt terminator through it. I have very little experience with that product, and I'd guess it may eat some carbon deposits out, but look how thick that crap is...

Like I said earlier, I did have to run it (fast idle and crippled) back into the inlet for 20 minutes or more, and could have been cramming it full of unburned fuel. Perhaps that's part of the spooge issue?

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i am still sticking with the cdi until you prove wrong
You could be right. The problem is I see no way to prove that wrong, other than throwing $600 at it and hope it never happens again...
 

keefer

T1
Location
Tennessee
It could be the coil breaking down or maybe a break in the plug wires. Check the resistance between the spark plug caps. Not sure what you should read on a Kawi but the Yami reads about 4500 ohms with non resistor plug caps, about 14000 with resistor caps. Call RD Young at Youngs Performance at 615-449-2373. RD is a factory trained mechanic and knows Kawi's very well. He can hook you up with answers and parts if you need them.
 

godocgo

sport
Location
s. fla
you should be able to pick up a cdi cheap. i know my advent was only 400.00. i sold my stock one for 100.00


it could be the coil, i was thinking that as well. but it would be to soon for the coil wires to be breaking down like on old yamaha. generally kawis have good coils and wires.

i have had a similar running boat from bad plug wires in the ocean, and yes it creates alot of unburnt spew. especially if you run your pipe cooler.
 
There are three relevant days.
Day 1 (the day the problem occured) It would start and idle, but not rev.
Day 2 (the following day) It wouldn't start. If I took the Factory Pipe jumper out, it would act just like day 1.
Day 3 (a month later = today) it acts fine on the trailer

I clipped the plug wires on day 2 and freshened them up. I can't get away from the idea it has to be timing related since on day 2, I could get it to start by removing the Factory Pipe jumper (retarding it 6 degrees) I would think if it were a coil, plug wire, or start/stop switch issue, this would have no effect.

Here's my theory.

Day 1, I loaded the pipe full of unburnt fuel while limping it back to the truck for 25 minutes. I only got to flush it out for a minute, and couldn't trully blow it out because the ski wouldn't rev. Now, (day 3) it will rev enough to blow all that crap out that I loosened with the Salt Terminator. Why does it start and run well now? I've got no idea. Electronics are crazy things to me. But I'm guessing it is that CDI. I just hate the fact there's no way to test prior to purchase.

My fear is that if I put it back together since it now seems fine, I'll drag it 8 hours to the beach, it'll act up, and I'll watch my buds ride all weekend while I cuss. OR I'll put a $500 CDI in it, and it will have been that some salt water got the plugs out of sorts for a few days, and I've pissed away my short stack of moola...
 
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my square spooged like that for a week or 2....it was a bad cdi


the day I finally figured it out and got it fixed..I wasnt expecting it to fire off with such authority...My GF had a FULL laundry basket sitting on the floor in the garage.....right behind the ski


trim your plug wires first.....



when my plug wires act up my ski will run great in freshwater, but constantly drop a cyl in salt...

a spray bottle of oceanwater could really help you here.....trim plug wires back, start it up...spray with salt water and see what happens....(do this in a dark room and you will see the spark arc off the wire to the head)...
 
I trimmed the wires at the morning of day 2. I also sprayed electrical cleaner all up in the plug boots. Didn't help at the time.

You know, on the surface, it would make since that it starts now after the wires or whatever have dried out well, but then I don't see why changing the timing would have helped on day 2.

Here's an interesting side note. On day 1 when it would start, and idle well, but only rev a few hundred RPM over idle, (with rough vibes), it felt and sounded identical in ALL regards with either both plugs on the motor, only the front one, or only the rear one......
 
Here's another thought. When I told Steve @ JSU that on day 2, it was actually firing only as long as the start button was depressed, he instantly said "CDI". He explained why, but I've since forgotten.

And not that it couldn't happen, but the ski was only about an hour and a half into it's salt water career, and ridden easy (lack of skill, not effort).
 

Scorn800

Ride for life
Location
North NJ
It's ths coil. I had it happen to my 03 limited.
Boat feels like it lost a cylinder but hasn't.
Stock CDI's usually never go bad.
That black sludge is unburnt fuel & oil caused by 1 of your plugs not firing.
 
I had it happen to my 03 limited.
Exact same thing?
Boat feels like it lost a cylinder but hasn't.
Dead on what it felt like.
Stock CDI's usually never go bad.
That's what I've been told.
That black sludge is unburnt fuel & oil caused by 1 of your plugs not firing.
But as stated before, they were both making spark when contacted to a head bolt, and each would start the motor when the other was not connected....
 

keefer

T1
Location
Tennessee
I know that you have trimmed the wires, but unless you have measured the resistance between the plug caps you are still just assuming that you have solved one potential problem. Get a ohm meter and set it to the 20k range and check it out. If it reads open the you have either bad wires or a bad coil.

I know that on Yamahas if the stop switch is reading partially on due to corrosion or salt water intrusion you will get similar results. See if you can rule out things like bad connectors, switches, wires, etc before buying the expensive CDI. Maybe you can borrow a CDI and rule it out before spending the cash. Surely someone on these boards will have one that you could use.
 
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