FX1 Hull Repair

Wow. how did he remake all of that? did he cut out the whole broken piece and use it as a back board to re create the lines? A job like that is freakin art work.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Wow, nice pics @VXSXH20 .

Thanks @Joker. So say I wanted to do something like splash my ride plate so I can try a d cut, am I better off using an epoxy based layup to make the mold and the part? Price point is the issue...sorry for getting a bit off topic op.

Prep the ride plate by detailing it. Any imperfections in the plate will show in the mold and the part.

Build a flange for the mould around the part. You can use foam and filler, clay, playing cards and packing tape, whatever works.

Wax the plug buffing between coats.

Use a mold skin like Pva here if you like.

Coat the mold. Gelcoat is best, preferably sprayed but can be brushed. And alternative is to heat some resin up befor you mix the resin, which will prevent air bubbles. Mix resin, paint a layer on the mold, allow to dry to tacky but not cured. This will do the job gelcoat does but expect some pinholes. Gelcoat is hard to brush on without allegatoring.

Fill any sharp angles with resin mixed with a filler to avoid air pockets.

Layup your glass, usually twice as thick as you plan to make the part, but not more than 1/4" at a time to prevent heat warp.



You could use epoxy, but ISO resin has minimal shrinking and is much easier to work.

Layup a 1-3 layers of chop, then cover it with a layer I conform cloth, then roll it. Repeat as necessary.

Epoxy will not desolve the starches in chop, thus it is hard to penetrate, so I wouldn't use chop of you plan to use epoxy.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Boatyard resin would be a good choice for you if you just want a quick cheap splash. It's polyester but has inconsistent quality. It should be okay for one off pieces for yourself.
 
Prep the ride plate by detailing it. Any imperfections in the plate will show in the mold and the part.

Build a flange for the mould around the part. You can use foam and filler, clay, playing cards and packing tape, whatever works.

Wax the plug buffing between coats.

Use a mold skin like Pva here if you like.

Coat the mold. Gelcoat is best, preferably sprayed but can be brushed. And alternative is to heat some resin up befor you mix the resin, which will prevent air bubbles. Mix resin, paint a layer on the mold, allow to dry to tacky but not cured. This will do the job gelcoat does but expect some pinholes. Gelcoat is hard to brush on without allegatoring.

Fill any sharp angles with resin mixed with a filler to avoid air pockets.

Layup your glass, usually twice as thick as you plan to make the part, but not more than 1/4" at a time to prevent heat warp.



You could use epoxy, but ISO resin has minimal shrinking and is much easier to work.

Layup a 1-3 layers of chop, then cover it with a layer I conform cloth, then roll it. Repeat as necessary.

Epoxy will not desolve the starches in chop, thus it is hard to penetrate, so I wouldn't use chop of you plan to use epoxy.

Thanks so much man...could you explain what you mean by build a flange for the mold. You mean wall of the ends of the plug? In this case the original plate?
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Thanks so much man...could you explain what you mean by build a flange for the mold. You mean wall of the ends of the plug? In this case the original plate?

Your mold needs an edge.

Plug from original parts / foam / bondo, flange made from playing cards, green because it has Pva on it. Clay is because its a 2-part mold.

I trimmed this with a grinder, but if you catch it at the gel stage (when it is firm with flex) you can trim it with a razor knife.
 

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Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
So whats the best way to sculpt for pureeee strength.....hold that thought. I need to make a thread. I have a huge project to take on.

I start with original parts, add foam for quick and cheap way to bulk up, then detail with bondo.

There are many different kinds of materials to use. The choice of materials and tools comes from experience.

Start with 2-part foam and the gallon can of bondo from harbor freight. Sand. I got a Stanley scraper the other day which works amazing. Stanley 21-295.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
So whats the best way to sculpt for pureeee strength.....hold that thought. I need to make a thread. I have a huge project to take on.

I would suggest that you do not take on a "big project" until you have done some small ones. Especially if budget is an issue. I've spent many hours and probably $200 to make the part you see above and it's still a piece of poop.

A gelcoat gun is $200. Here's what happens when you unevenly apply gelcoat with a brush.

It's like paper mâché, but it's a poop load harder than putting wet paper on a ballon, and mistakes are a lot more expensive. That picture is about $30 worth of garbage. Money invested into a learning curve.

Don't think custom one off parts are cheap or easy. They are expensive in time and money. You can buy a used ride plate and d-cut it for the same or less money than you can make one on a learning curve.

Not trying to discourage, but know what you are getting into and spend your money on what is most important to you. For me, this is we much of a hobby as riding, especially since I got hurt and can't spend the money on fuel like I was.
 

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For me, this is we much of a hobby as riding, especially since I got hurt and can't spend the money on fuel like I was.

I almost feel like riding and composites are one and the same unless you have the coin for strong A/M composites. Speaking of you being hurt. Is it because of the problems you were experiencing due to riding stance? How is all of that coming along man? I hope you get it figured out sooner than later!
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
I almost feel like riding and composites are one and the same unless you have the coin for strong A/M composites. Speaking of you being hurt. Is it because of the problems you were experiencing due to riding stance? How is all of that coming along man? I hope you get it figured out sooner than later!

I have an underlying congenital problem with my back. I never knew, but now that I can't take a hit like I was when I was 18, it's become obvious. A bit of a set back but I'm getting there.

I disagree about riding and composites being the same. Stock parts will take a lot of abuse and don't really break until you start trying to invert. My Superjet is all bolt on parts, always ready to ride, I don't do any composite work on it. My x2 is all custom and is almost always apart.

Riding and composites need to be seperate hobbies, with 2 seperate skis, otherwise you really only have one hobby at a time, you just switch them from time to time.
 
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