Super Jet Foot Tray

Hey guys, just wondering if anyone has ever tried making the foot tray on their ski removable for easy access to the either pump inserts, foam replacement or changing out scupper hardware. It seems like it would be a smart thing to do...how often it would be used to access inside the tunnel could be slim to none but is there a downside to it?
 
I am by no means someone who will ever be caught cutting up a hull and doing repair work. However, I can imagine that a removable foot tray will cause tons of issues do to not sealing well.
 
That was my thought too, get a 2 inch wide x 1/4" thick plate for underneath with tapped holes, another on top with a good weather stripping seal under the top plate and bolt it down solid. It would need some thought to be workable but in theory it should be possible. The only thing is if one were to incorporate the footholds as a removable item with the lid, it would take a fair bit of work to make it happen. I just did the big dig on my ski due to soaked foam and thought that it would be really nice to get access behind the Versi Plugs for times requiring it, or if the pump inserts needed replacing. Cutting the the tray out was not a big job but how much better would it have been if a dozen fasteners were all it needed to get in there and do the work. 10 minutes and the tunnel is open. I might still consider something to this effect.

Edit: I should mention that the plate would be a border banding type of plate, not a full sheet.
 
I think the turf removal and reapplying might take you as long, if not longer than the traditional cut and glass, so how do you plan to keep the turf intact?
I will say that it's harder to make the hull structurally sound with a bolt in method, and the way to make up for that lack of strength requires more, heavier materials. You'll likely add a good bit of weight to get the same integrity...
 
The turf wouldn't be too difficult, no different than the way boat manufacturers carpet a compartment cover. Just leave the hardware accessible and use flat head sockethead cap screws. But the structural integrity part had me wondering too. I think you're right about it being just as easy to turf and reglass each time. It did take only about 40 minutes to cut out almost the entire tray and 10 minutes to pull up the turf. I guess I know what way I will be going lol.
 

Yami-Rider

TigerCraft FV-PRO
Location
Texoma
I hope you're serious because I like that idea. One big o-ring as a bond rail seal, the usual disconnect components...deal!

That's how the sea-doo spark is held together. I dont understand the benifit behind having access to tray area. If you repair it right after refoam or whatever, you should never have to mess with it again. I have seen way to many cracked trays, it would be tough to make it strong enough for my riding style.
 

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
If your hull is designed using CAD software it wouldn't be too hard to incorporate a removeable deck/hatch in your design.
 
Location
dfw
If your hull is designed using CAD software it wouldn't be too hard to incorporate a removeable deck/hatch in your design.
The problem is labor cost when it has to be lite-weight. It is easy and cheap to design a heavy frame with few fasteners. Look at every panel on a jet.
 

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
The problem is labor cost when it has to be lite-weight. It is easy and cheap to design a heavy frame with few fasteners. Look at every panel on a jet.
An entirely removable top deck wouldn't add more than a few pounds though. You could make indentations for socket cap bolts in the bond rail, and have indentations for a nut on the bottom deck bond rail.. Obviously I'm leaving out a lot of details but thats the basic idea. (3D printing the plug would make these features fairly easy to design, and when you consider infusion/vacuum bagging you could probably get some pretty darn accurate indentations)
Would still look sano. This would definitely be more of a luxury though. But with the right design, it could be lightweight enough for comp carbon hulls, and maybe even strong enough to withstand hard surf riding. Because there's a decent amount of stress on that top and bottom deck bond, I'm not completely sure that a simple nut and bolt design would suffice though. It'd definitely take some R&D but it would be cool to see it happen.
 
Ive have seen a small access hatch on a hull that is about 5x5" directly above the drive shaft tube. Was just big enough to get into for any repairs and to flush out the tray and cooling tubes after saltwater use. Then another full tray plate is bolted on top. Like the old lwde hulls.
 
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