First time rebuilding carbs

This is my first time rebuilding these carbs I got this superjet like 6 months ago and knew right away I was going to have to rebuild the carbs. The ski runs good except if I fall off or stop after riding for a minute I have a hard time starting it . but my question is when I rebuild them should I put all the settings back to stock ? Also I got the ski without the air filter mesh squair elements that cover the carbs under the black air filter cover. Should I get some new ones when I rebuild the carbs ? Or not even worry about it? I assume I need them if I'm going back to stock . another thing is I have an aftermarket fuel tank so I don't have a fuel shut off or reserve. Switch . and another thing is no choke. I have a primer knob with the choke butterflies removed. Other than that everything is stock that I know of untill I pull apart the carbs and see what seet and needle are in there and pop off spring . if u can think of any other tips or suggestions u think would be helpfull I'm all ears. Thanks in advance.
 

john zigler

Vendor Account
Location
wisconsin
I would start with stock high and low speed settings, and tune from there. You could make note of where your settings are now, just so you know, and compare to stock.

Yes, I would also recommend adding screens in the flame arrestor box. You should run at least one per carb.

With less screens in the box, and no choke I would run a 95 gram needle arm spring. (Stock is 115 gram)
 
View attachment 398136View attachment 398136View attachment 398136 here is a pic of the reads should i be concerned with the rust on the holders ? should i replace these ? they look like the original ones from 2001 idk?

Nah your fine as is with those take a steel wool or wire brush with some carb cleaner and clean as much rust off as you can...
your spacing on them looks fine

as far as rust goes on skis from my experience rebuilding 2 and getting perfect compression. If it’s rusty take some time to wire brush it off most of the rust on skis is typically surface if it starts getting worse than surface rust I’d then start looking at replacing it
 

john zigler

Vendor Account
Location
wisconsin
I would be more worried about rust on your crank? Sure looks like your engine has been sitting with moisture in it, probably condensation from not blowing the exh out, or maybe it has been sank, or had water ingestion at some point. If your reed stops are that rusty, I am almost certain your crank would be as well.

Even though your reed pedals are flat, and look good, they ARE original and are metal. They can/do break off, and can also ruin an engine. May want to change out to fiberglass.
 
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