dan
Team suckass
- Location
- socal palmdale
ok just got the dry pipe on but i have no clue where all the lines go anyone got pics or can help me out, its got a pro-tec head with 2 cooling fittings. helllllllllllllllllp
factory dry pipe cooline lines please help
- Thread starter dan
- Start date
Dry pipes should have a second dedicated cooling line going in to the bottom of the pipe and out the stinger. PLEASE use a small sea strainer if you ride within a 2 miles of any sand:banghead:
My type 9 was an instant clogger. I think a paramicium could clog it.
Both pissers off the head should go overboard.
My type 9 was an instant clogger. I think a paramicium could clog it.
Both pissers off the head should go overboard.
dan
Team suckass
- Location
- socal palmdale
ok im still confused so i need 2 pissers?? can someone make a drawing on paint or somthing sorry if im a pain in the ass but i need this ting done tonight
I could be wrong but you should have at least 2 pissers with a dry. I have 3.
1 for the pipe and 2 for the head. The 2 off of the head go overboard. Then a seperate in line from the pump should feed just the water jacket of the dry pipe. It should have its own pisser out the side.
I'll try to draw something. Wait a minute.
1 for the pipe and 2 for the head. The 2 off of the head go overboard. Then a seperate in line from the pump should feed just the water jacket of the dry pipe. It should have its own pisser out the side.
I'll try to draw something. Wait a minute.
dan
Team suckass
- Location
- socal palmdale
fill in the blanks the orange are the fittings
OK I suck at paint:banghead:
You should have dual cooling. 2 inbound lines from the pump. One of them feeds the exaust manifold which feeds the motor and out the 2 pissers on the head.
The other should feed just the water jacket of the dry pipe itself. Some of it will escape thru the stinger at the top of the pipe and the rest will exit out the front end of the water jacket and go overboard.
I'm tired and I can't think:sleepy:
You should have dual cooling. 2 inbound lines from the pump. One of them feeds the exaust manifold which feeds the motor and out the 2 pissers on the head.
The other should feed just the water jacket of the dry pipe itself. Some of it will escape thru the stinger at the top of the pipe and the rest will exit out the front end of the water jacket and go overboard.
I'm tired and I can't think:sleepy:
dan
Team suckass
- Location
- socal palmdale
madmat look up i made a draving just connect
dan
Team suckass
- Location
- socal palmdale
where do the pink ones go?? so i need 3 pissers??
They don't "go". They come in thru the firewall from the pump. They supply the water to the pipe and motor.
1 should connect to the exaust manifold and the other directly to the pipe....WITH A SMALL SEA STRAINER though or the water jacket will clog.
I can not even remember how many days I wasted going home to backflush my water jacket.
Yea you will need 3 pissers unless you "T" the 2 off of the head but I would run 3 pissers.
I added a small black circle where you should run a small inline sea strainer. Dry pipes have zero tolerance for crap going thru them.
1 should connect to the exaust manifold and the other directly to the pipe....WITH A SMALL SEA STRAINER though or the water jacket will clog.
I can not even remember how many days I wasted going home to backflush my water jacket.
Yea you will need 3 pissers unless you "T" the 2 off of the head but I would run 3 pissers.
I added a small black circle where you should run a small inline sea strainer. Dry pipes have zero tolerance for crap going thru them.
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dan
Team suckass
- Location
- socal palmdale
thanks so much ill give it a try:hail:
dan
Team suckass
- Location
- socal palmdale
ok where should i tee in for the flush kit??
I ride fresh water but you ocean guys may need 2 hose connectors on a setup like that. 1 to flush the motor and 1 to flush the pipe.
The 1 to flush the motor could be t'd off of one of the head pissers.
The one to back flush the dry pipe jacket should start at the stinger outbound. Then if you are just backflushing the pipe you dont even have to let the ski run. Water will just go thru the jacket and out the brass 90 on the pump.
Although if I was riding salt I would buy/make one of those contraptions we had in Daytona. It is a little hose connector with tiny outputs that you just shove up into you pissers. I think someone even had a dual one so that he could backflush 2 pissers at once.
The 1 to flush the motor could be t'd off of one of the head pissers.
The one to back flush the dry pipe jacket should start at the stinger outbound. Then if you are just backflushing the pipe you dont even have to let the ski run. Water will just go thru the jacket and out the brass 90 on the pump.
Although if I was riding salt I would buy/make one of those contraptions we had in Daytona. It is a little hose connector with tiny outputs that you just shove up into you pissers. I think someone even had a dual one so that he could backflush 2 pissers at once.
dan
Team suckass
- Location
- socal palmdale
ok another thing do you use the hose thats coming thru the firewall that gos into that plastic little box?? because i dont see another hose??? hellllp
No. That is the hose from your stock bilge. You will eventuallt get rid of that plastic box and use the aluminum tube that it once used as your new inbound.
But you have to remove your pump, seal off the stock bilge suction thingy with some goop, and drill and tap a new hole for a new brass fitting. There is already a little spot on the pump ready for this. Then you will have true dual cooling.
Then you simply reconnect the hose at the pump which will now push instead of pull.
In the mean time I guess you could run one of your outbound head fittings into the bottom of the pipe. This just means that the water cooling the dry pipe jacket will already be warm but I guess it's no big deal there cuz the water stays pretty cool. Our water is at 75F right now so I need cool water in my pipe.
Drilling and tapping the pump is cake so don't hesitate. You will just need a 90 degree 3/8"NPT fitting, a 3/8" tap, and whatever drill bit it calls for. You will see the spot on the pump where it needs to go. It is a little elevated round spot directly opposite of your current 90 degree fitting.
At this point I would get a 1100GPH bilge with the 1 1/8" pisser and hose because you will no longer have a stock bilge.
But you have to remove your pump, seal off the stock bilge suction thingy with some goop, and drill and tap a new hole for a new brass fitting. There is already a little spot on the pump ready for this. Then you will have true dual cooling.
Then you simply reconnect the hose at the pump which will now push instead of pull.
In the mean time I guess you could run one of your outbound head fittings into the bottom of the pipe. This just means that the water cooling the dry pipe jacket will already be warm but I guess it's no big deal there cuz the water stays pretty cool. Our water is at 75F right now so I need cool water in my pipe.
Drilling and tapping the pump is cake so don't hesitate. You will just need a 90 degree 3/8"NPT fitting, a 3/8" tap, and whatever drill bit it calls for. You will see the spot on the pump where it needs to go. It is a little elevated round spot directly opposite of your current 90 degree fitting.
At this point I would get a 1100GPH bilge with the 1 1/8" pisser and hose because you will no longer have a stock bilge.
- Location
- So. IL
I just worked on a ski that had a dry pipe and a single cooling line and it was set up like this drawing
I have 2 lines coming in like mat is describing but the water I ride in gets over 100 degrees in the summer so I need all the cooling I can get I guess if the water isn't super hot then one line should work but keep an eye on the out going water when you set it up to be sure it isn't over 130 degrees.
But here is the picture of the water setup on the ski I was working on. It was a GP 760.
I have 2 lines coming in like mat is describing but the water I ride in gets over 100 degrees in the summer so I need all the cooling I can get I guess if the water isn't super hot then one line should work but keep an eye on the out going water when you set it up to be sure it isn't over 130 degrees.
But here is the picture of the water setup on the ski I was working on. It was a GP 760.
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dan
Team suckass
- Location
- socal palmdale
what should i do about the other fitting i have on the head?? just make it a pisser??
- Location
- So. IL
Just plug it off that will force more water through the pipe.