Factory B Pipe Screw Adjustments for Best Low To Mid Power

[METALMULISHA559]

I'm sure there's an old post out there about this topic but I'm hoping for some more recent information to help me adjust my new Factory B Pipe with limited chamber. I'll be installing this on my 95 Superjet. Stock bore 62t/61x motor, lightened flywheel, girdled head, dual stage reeds, Msd coil and CDI, TDR waterbox, and Solas 12 vein with 9/15 hooker. I'm upgrading from a Coffman sizzle. I really want to try and get the adjustments close to perfect prior to installing the pipe. Can someone offer some assistance?

 

[Sanoman]

Google your questions and you will probably be redirected back to the X.Several theories depending on who you ask.

 

[john zigler]

We start with top, and mid screws closed. Bottom screw at about 1/4 turn open. Depending on the build, some we set at an 1/8-3/16th

John

 

[METALMULISHA559]

Google your questions and you will probably be redirected back to the X.Several theories depending on who you ask.

I probably should've mentioned that I've Google this for hours prior to making this post. Found tons of different options and options but most are very old posts so I'm looking for some more current information.

 

[METALMULISHA559]

We start with top, and mid screws closed. Bottom screw at about 1/4 turn open. Depending on the build, some we set at an 1/8-3/16th

John

Thank you I'll give that a try. FP website says about the same thing except they say to start at 3/4 on the bottom screw.

 

[Big Kahuna]

Factory Pipe Instructions will tell you bottom and middle closed top open for the best low end power.

 

[Pro-pulsion]

This is always an interesting topic to read and see what results people get from their setups. With my ski and a few WaveBlasters I have setup we found the best settings to be only the top screw open by about 5/16 of a turn, maybe +/- just touch. I tried just the bottom screw and found it to be lacking on holeshot but pretty good on the top speed. I recall reading a long time ago that the closer to the exhaust manifold you inject water the stronger your holeshot response. For my setups, this has proven to be true

 

[METALMULISHA559]

This is always an interesting topic to read and see what results people get from their setups. With my ski and a few WaveBlasters I have setup we found the best settings to be only the top screw open by about 5/16 of a turn, maybe +/- just touch. I tried just the bottom screw and found it to be lacking on holeshot but pretty good on the top speed. I recall reading a long time ago that the closer to the exhaust manifold you inject water the stronger your holeshot response. For my setups, this has proven to be true

I think that's about how the screws were set out of the box. I haven't changed anything yet or even installed the thing lol. I plan on getting it installed this week and testing on Saturday. I'm also thinking about taking the screws out and lubricating with anti seize. Not sure if that's necessary but I always hear lots of people having issues with their screws getting stuck.

 

[X2Kid]

Apply anti seize to all screws on installation. Probably a good idea to remove all screws at the end of the season and re-do the anti seize. They do seem to like becoming a permanent part of the header!

 

[mikesx]

Tuning with the top screw has the added benefit of being the easiest to unclog, when it happens. +1 on what X2Kid suggested.

 

[waxhead]

top two closed and bottom open 1/2

 

[fastgtfairlane]

I always leave the bottom screw alone. Top open 1/2 turn from closed and 1/4 turn open on the middle screw on my superjet. On my x2 I have the top open 1.5 turns on the top screw. Best way is to run your ski and tune yourself. Also the way the water routing is set up can change that too. I personally run a dedicated cooling line to the bottom of the headpipe so the exhaust always has cooler water directly from the pump. Just allows more water tuning on the exhaust.

 

[METALMULISHA559]

I always leave the bottom screw alone. Top open 1/2 turn from closed and 1/4 turn open on the middle screw on my superjet. On my x2 I have the top open 1.5 turns on the top screw. Best way is to run your ski and tune yourself. Also the way the water routing is set up can change that too. I personally run a dedicated cooling line to the bottom of the headpipe so the exhaust always has cooler water directly from the pump. Just allows more water tuning on the exhaust.

OH yeah water routing is another debate. Thinking about running from the Rear of the head to bottom of head pipe. From top of the head to pisser. From the top of the head pipe to a T with ome end of the T going into a flow control valve and then to the stinger. The other end of the T going to pisser number 2. Kinda like this picture except the bottom of the T will be connected to the top of the head pipe.

 

[fastgtfairlane]

That's your typical dual cooling setup there. A parallel setup would be one line to the engine and a separate line to the bottom of the pipe. Either will work fine

 

[Octane_114]

It’s been a few years now since I have ran a bpipe. In my experience y’all have a lot of water flowing through the head pipe. For bottom end punch, bottom and middle screw closed and top opened 1/16th. Your temps will come up some and you can check the sizzle like the factory pipe instructions state. You may go through a few more couplers but the gain to me was worth the 20 bucks at the end of the summer.

For top end, the top screw 1/16th and the bottom 1/16-1/8. I had to play with it a bit and I went back in forth with the tune on the pipe and the tune on my carbs. When I could get the pipe were I wanted it, I could then in turn get the carbs a little better. I spent a lot of time on this. It was a fun challenge, to a point the hotter the chamber more hp. I also run a fcv.

the three chambers I have experience with are the 650/x2 chamber, blaster limited and the c4. It was a very close toss up between the limited and c4, the limited may have the slightest advantage off the bottom but would fall off hard. The c4 is really strong off the bottom but will still pull all the way through the rpms.

my engine was bb795cc, tbm flywheel, advent with a custom d23 curve set, boyesen reeds bj46’s
7600 rpms 57-58mph and could hole shot any 1100 I came up against, I could out run them if it was a short closed course.

 

[Octane_114]

OH yeah water routing is another debate. Thinking about running from the Rear of the head to bottom of head pipe. From top of the head to pisser. From the top of the head pipe to a T with ome end of the T going into a flow control valve and then to the stinger. The other end of the T going to pisser number 2. Kinda like this picture except the bottom of the T will be connected to the top of the head pipe.

If you are able to feed your engine and pipe water separately it’s easier to tune the exhaust.

even on my setup now dasa920cc with powerfactory i keep the water separate.

 

[afraz1er]

I prefer separate engine and pipe circuits..like this.

Edit- but i use a "y" fitting to the exh manifold instead of a "t"



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[fastgtfairlane]

I set mine up similar only I tee the two outlets out of the head to one then to the stinger with flow control valve and 1/4 inch restrictor on the water bypass. Also put a 1/4 inch restrictor out of the top of the headpipe to keep constant water pressure on headpipe for better spray pattern. I'll take the restrictor out during summer season on the stinger bypass

 

[METALMULISHA559]

Finally got the pipe almost installed and found out the chamber sits against the ribs on the left side of the hull. Apparently I need to cut those out so the chamber doesn't rub eh? Lol

 

[john zigler]

Finally got the pipe almost installed and found out the chamber sits against the ribs on the left side of the hull. Apparently I need to cut those out so the chamber doesn't rub eh? Lol

Yes