Ever been done?

MADMAT

MADMAT

Location
Ohio
Just had the idea while getting all of the fluids in my Jeep Cherokee drained and then flushed and filled.

Could a couple of plugs be put in to a thick area in the crank cases so that a 2 stoke could be flushed and or oil bathed for whatever reason? (Say it sank in saltwater in Daytona07 and then it would not start and then it got driven back to Ohio and put away in the middle of a blizzard for example:clown:)

I could not run it but I could have filled it with 2 stoke oil (or whatever would be best) and sucked it out and repeated. NO TEAR DOWN:no:

Like 1 up high by flywheel cover and one down low in back and just seal it really good with a dab of 5200 (an air leak would be really bad!)and some pipe cap? I have capped cases before for carb changes.
 
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Andrew1289

Andrew1289

Hey, sounds like a good but I think that drain/bolt would be one more thing to worry about. For those very, very few times you could not start it up to flush it out for whatever reason why not just pull the carbs/intake manifold off and fill the cases with oil that way. Its more work then your idea with the case plugs but it does not complicate things either.
 
S

sflsurfrider

MADMAT said:
Just had the idea while getting all of the fluids in my Jeep Cherokee drained and then flushed and filled.

Could a couple of plugs be put in to a thick area in the crank cases so that a 2 stoke could be flushed and or oil bathed for whatever reason? (Say it sank in saltwater in Daytona07 and then it would not start and then it got driven back to Ohio and put away in the middle of a blizzard for example:clown:)

I could not run it but I could have filled it with 2 stoke oil (or whatever would be best) and sucked it out and repeated. NO TEAR DOWN:no:

Like 1 up high by flywheel cover and one down low in back and just seal it really good with a dab of 5200 (an air leak would be really bad!)and some pipe cap? I have capped cases before for carb changes.
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the above "example" would be a toasted engine come riding season.

kawis have the crankcase drain, but they should always be ran, or torn down after sinking. i block off all crankcase drains on kawis because they are very very yucky. thats right..
 
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MADMAT

MADMAT

Location
Ohio
It hopefully will never happen again but other reasons too.

Say I bought that motor for 625 here on the X (would have in a second if I was up 625) and I just wanted to store it on the shelf in a bag. Nice oil bath on the crank without the BS.

Or maybe you just suspect some fiberglass/aluminum dust got in there before you put the carbs on and you want it fresh.

I guess I would not do unless the cases had a nice thick area that could handle a nice plug.
 
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MADMAT

MADMAT

Location
Ohio
sflsurfrider said:
the above "example" would be a toasted engine come riding season.
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That engine did blow as I expected it would. I had another waiting. But would it have blown if I could have done what I am asking? Forget that it was 10 years old when it blew. Say it was fresh but I sank it and then drove it home and flushed it with 50:1 a couple of times.
 
MADMAT

MADMAT

Location
Ohio
Mouthfulloflake said:
pour oil down the carb.

spin the engine over.

when you want to run it again, turn the boat up side down, remove plugs, and let it drain out.
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Does it take forever to drain out? wouldn't contaminants just stay in there then? Just askin cuz I have never done it. Is it OK to leave the reed assembly soaked in oil or 50:1 mix?
 
D-Roc

D-Roc

I forgot!
Location
Dirty River Rider
i looked at a 650sx one time and i popped the hood and a little note on the plugs said: Do not crank motor, filled with oil. the guy said it had been in storage for almost 8 years and it was filled up with 2 stroke. you probably could have removed the carb and done the same thing.
 
S

sflsurfrider

i dont see how you could get the wrist pins and bearings properly. if they lock up due to rust, it could cause major damage. i could see how itd prolong the life of the bottom end bearings, but youd want to make sure the pistons are setting even with eachother as to not have the lower bearings potentially sitting in whatever water you couldnt get out.
 
tom21

tom21

havin fun
Location
clearwater FL
charlie just agree with him and tell him its a good idea. if you are hellbent on doing it then do it. its not a guarantee its gonna work btw. you can also pour into the motor and suction thru the pulse fitting if you have a real small plastic tube. still need to pull it to flip it so you can coat the wristpins. teardown is safer still. but you go and do it. shortcutter!!!!:bananalama:
 
MADMAT

MADMAT

Location
Ohio
I'm not doing it. Just wondering.

Maybe on some future build.

And what would a tear down do that dumping oil down the holes and "flushing" the crank cases would not do. Assuming you knew it was clean motor that had just been sunk or left open or something.
 
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MADMAT

MADMAT

Location
Ohio
D-Roc said:
how come you couldn't start it after it sunk? i would think running the motor is best and tear down second best.
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I can't remember now but I think it was as I was leaving. Killed the battery, plugs were shot and I headed back in to a blizzard. That motor lived a long life and then I parted her out. R.I.P. 96er!!:headbang:
 
ang4th

ang4th

Location
Ontario Canada
a few times I sunk my skis .. usually ya just get them started right a waty after draining all the water .. and all is ok .. but one It tookme about 30 min due to the electrical not working ( ok after aslight dry out) ... I was planning on doing just that .. filling the engine with 2 stroke oil .. I think it would be the next bestthing .. a very messy job to drain .. tear down after that would probbe best but I thnkif ya draied it all out and got it running I bet it would be fine .. def the olny optionif you are out on a ski weekend your ski sinks fails and wont restart ,,, your prob going to just have a beer ,, better with oilin there to displace the left over water drops,,
 
MADMAT

MADMAT

Location
Ohio
ang4th said:
.. a very messy job to drain .. ,
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I can have my motor out and sitting on a 2 x 8 across my engine compartment in roughly 20 minutes.

flush, recapture, strain, flush, recapture.

I should also add that I HATE wrenching so a full tear down is a huge deal to me. I know its not for some.

With my current set up I don't mind simply pulling the motor at all. Easy!
 
MADMAT

MADMAT

Location
Ohio
D-Roc said:
lol damn blizzards and dead batteries.
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And salt! The motor I was talking about in that example was so bad the pistons had rusted to the sleeves. I soaked it in silikroil for a couple of days and then gently beat on the pistons with wood and a mallot. It ran for like 6 or 7 more tanks and blew @ 10 years old.
 
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D-Roc

D-Roc

I forgot!
Location
Dirty River Rider
yeah saltwater is gotta be waaaay worse then freshwater. i would think that getting the motor up to operating temps with new oil being added would eventually burn up the water. at least it has on my ski when i sunk it. my buddy sunk his and only ran it on the hose for about 10 min. the next time out it threw a rod.
 
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